Steak tartare
Photo: Dr. Bernd Gross · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Steak tartare became a Parisian bistro classic in the early 20th century; Larousse Gastronomique 1938 records the dish in its modern form (the apocryphal Tatar-warriors-under-saddle story is invention). The hand-chopped version (couteau, not minced) is the canonical preparation; the mixed-at-the-table service style (waiter chops shallots, capers, egg yolk, hot sauce, Worcestershire and seasoning into the meat before plating) is the Parisian bistro signature. Le Comptoir du Relais in the 6e keeps the tableside chop; Bistrot Paul Bert and Le Cinq Mars both plate hand-chopped versions every lunch. The dish is a barometer of bistro quality; if the kitchen will not hand-chop, walk out.

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Common allergens: Egg, Gluten

Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 20 minTotal 20 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g very fresh beef fillet (filet mignon) or rump cap (picanha), trimmed of all sinew
  • 2 large fresh egg yolks (pasteurised if available)
  • 2 shallots, very finely chopped
  • 2 tbsp capers in brine, drained and finely chopped
  • 4 cornichons, finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
  • Several dashes of Tabasco, to taste
  • 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • To serve: green salad with mustard vinaigrette, hand-cut frites or toasted country bread

Method

  1. Chill the beef hard for 30 minutes before chopping; cold meat is easier to cut cleanly.
  2. Slice the beef thinly with a sharp knife, then cross-slice into 3mm dice. Do not use a food processor; the texture should be irregular bite-size, not paste.
  3. Pile the chopped beef in the centre of a wide cold bowl.
  4. Make a well in the centre. Add the egg yolks, mustard, Worcestershire, Tabasco, olive oil, shallots, capers, cornichons and parsley.
  5. Season aggressively with salt and pepper.
  6. Fold everything together gently with two forks; do not mash. The texture should stay loose and irregular.
  7. Taste; correct seasoning. The dish needs more salt and pepper than feels right; raw beef absorbs seasoning.
  8. Mound onto two cold plates in a neat dome (some chefs press into a ring mould, then lift).
  9. Top each with a hollow scooped into the centre and a fresh egg yolk dropped in (optional, if not already mixed in).
  10. Serve immediately with a small green salad and hand-cut frites or toasted country bread.

Tip from the editors. Buy the freshest fillet from a butcher who knows you are eating it raw; same-day primal cut. Nervous? Freeze 14 days at -18C; parasites die, no texture loss.

Where to eat steak tartare

Steak tartare in Paris

Bistrot Paul Bert ★ 4.4

€€ French Bistro11e

Bistrot Paul Bert is Paris's textbook bistro: zinc bar, chalkboard menu, steak frites cooked rare with hand-cut fries, île flottante for two on a single.

OrderSteak frites cooked saignant, île flottante for two, a pichet of house red.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Book two weeks ahead for a weeknight or take the 19:30 first seating.

Directions

Le Comptoir du Relais ★ 4.4

€€ French Bistro6e

Yves Camdeborde's Le Comptoir du Relais in Paris helped invent the term bistronomie in the 1990s and still serves the dining-room version every weeknight.

OrderThe pâté en croûte for two and whatever offal main is on the chalkboard.

TipLunch and weekend service runs walk-in; dinner Mon-Fri needs a booking six weeks out.

Directions

Le Cinq Mars ★ 4.2

€ French bistro

Le Cinq Mars in Paris's 7e plates a €24 weekday lunch set: endive salad with Roquefort, plat du jour, dessert. The same kitchen runs the €60 dinner carte.

TryLunch set

TipLunch is open to walk-ins; arrive at 12:30 to skip the gallery crowd that fills by 13:00.

Directions

Le Bon Georges ★ 4.4

€€ French Bistro9e

Le Bon Georges in Paris's 9e cooks farmer-named meat and a tarte tatin worth ordering before the main: the kitchen prep includes a 12-hour rest on the apples.

OrderCôte de bœuf for two from a named Limousin farm, tarte tatin with crème fraîche.

TipThe wine list is small but well-chosen; ask the waiter rather than the sommelier.

Directions

Robert et Louise ★ 4.3

€€ French Regional3e

Robert et Louise in Paris's 3e has grilled côtes de bœuf over an open log fire in the dining room since 1958. Booking required for the fireside tables.

OrderCôte de bœuf for two grilled in the room, aligot from the Aubrac.

TipTwo seatings only, 19:30 and 21:30. Closed Sunday. Sit close to the fire in winter.

Directions Book

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