Peixes in Nice's Carre d'Or near the Opera is Armand Crespo's Mediterranean seafood counter of ceviche, tartare and tataki on the daily catch from the Cours Saleya fish market.
Signature dishes: Fish ceviche, Local fish tataki
Must order: The ceviche of the day; the morning Saleya catch is in the menu by noon.
Tip: No reservations; arrive by 12:30 or 19:30 to land a stool. Tapas from EUR 7, mains around EUR 25.
Address: 4 Rue de l'Opera, 06300 Nice
Felix on Avenue Felix Faure faces the Coulee Verte in Nice's Carre d'Or, the historic city brasserie reopened under a new name with French Mediterranean across five rooms and a terrace.
Signature: Brasserie classics, Niçoise salad
Order: The classic salade nicoise at lunch; pizza, pasta and wine by the glass anchor the menu.
Tip: Open 7 days a week, 11:45 to 01:30; continuous service through the afternoon, rare in Nice.
Cafe Marche on Rue Barillerie just off Cours Saleya is Emilie Bargin's morning room in Vieux Nice, the Sunday 09:00 to 17:00 brunch the city's most reliable weekend booking.
Signature: Sunday brunch, Eggs and toast plate
Order: The Sunday brunch of scrambled eggs, jams and honey toast, club sandwich and salads.
Tip: Open Sunday when much of the city is closed; arrive by 11:00 for a terrace table.
Felix on Avenue Felix Faure faces the Coulee Verte in Nice's Carre d'Or, the historic city brasserie reopened under a new name with French Mediterranean across five rooms and a terrace.
Signature: Brasserie classics, Niçoise salad
Order: The classic salade nicoise at lunch; pizza, pasta and wine by the glass anchor the menu.
Tip: Open 7 days a week, 11:45 to 01:30; continuous service through the afternoon, rare in Nice.
Little Boho on Place Garibaldi is the boho chic daytime room Melissa and Jean opened in the Petit Marais of Nice, terrace tables on the yellow arcaded square with a short Mediterranean menu.
Signature: Daily lunch plate, Apero board
Order: The daily lunch plate at the terrace, then an apero board on the square at sunset.
Tip: Continuous service through the afternoon; closed Monday. Good fallback when Cafe de Turin is full.
Cave de la Tour on Rue de la Tour has poured local wines in Vieux Nice since 1947, four generations of the Gazan family and the home of the world petits farcis championship since 2012.
Signature: Petits farcis, Stockfish, Bellet glass pours
Order: A plate of petits farcis and a glass of Bellet white at the granite counter.
Tip: The petits farcis championship runs every autumn at the bar; book a stool the same morning.
Chez Pipo on Rue Bavastro has fired socca in wood burning ovens since 1923, the canonical Nicois address for the chickpea flour pancake the city invented between Place Garibaldi and Port Lympia.
Signature: Socca, Pissaladiere, Tourte de blettes
Order: Two slices of socca and a glass of Bellet rose at the bench seat.
Tip: Open Wednesday to Sunday 11:30 to 14:30 and 17:30 to 22:00; no reservations, cash and card both accepted.
Lou Pilha Leva on Rue du Collet runs the Vieux Nice street food counter for socca, pan bagnat and pissaladiere, the tiled cafeteria with shared tables in the heart of the old town.
Signature: Socca, Pan bagnat, Pissaladiere
Order: A socca, a pan bagnat tuna sandwich, and a slice of pissaladiere on shared paper trays.
Tip: Open daily 09:00 to midnight; cash and card. Order at the counter, sit at the tiled shared tables.
