Cuisine Nissarde€€carre-d-or
Lou Balico on Avenue Saint Jean Baptiste has cooked the Nicois family canon since 1979, the Cuisine Nissarde label across stockfish, homemade ravioli and the sweet chard tart.
Signature: Stockfish, Homemade ravioli, Tarte de blettes
Order: The homemade ravioli with daube sauce and the tarte de blettes for dessert.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday evenings. Generous portions; doggie bags accepted.
Cuisine Nissarde€€vieux-nice
Le Safari on Cours Saleya in Vieux Nice has cooked the canonical Nicois lunch since 1972, the Cuisine Nissarde label and terrace tables across from the flower market.
Signature: Pissaladiere, Stockfish, Daube
Order: The pissaladiere and the stockfish; the daube is the dinner anchor.
Tip: Open 12:00 to 23:00 daily; book the terrace at lunch during morning market hours.
Mediterranean seafood€€€port-lympia
Le Bistrot du Port on Quai Lunel runs Jose Orsini's Mediterranean seafood room on Port Lympia, large terrace tables and a kitchen built around the daily catch off the docks.
Signature: Daily catch, Whole sea bream
Order: The whole sea bream from the morning catch; the wine list leans Bellet.
Tip: Book a quayside table for sunset. Closed Mondays; busy at lunch with port traffic.
Seafood and shellfish€€€place-garibaldi
Cafe de Turin on Place Garibaldi has poured oysters on the Nice arcaded square since 1908, the Roumegous oyster the house pearl in an eighty tonne annual shuck.
Signature: Roumegous oysters, Shellfish platter
Order: A dozen Roumegous oysters and a glass of Bellet white at the sidewalk counter.
Tip: Open 10:00 to 22:00 daily. No reservations; arrive early or at 16:00 between services.
Seafood and paella€€€carre-d-or
Le Boccaccio on Rue Massena in Nice's pedestrian Carre d'Or runs a 17th century sailing ship interior across two floors, seafood and paella from a big terrace in the shopping streets.
Signature: Bouillabaisse, Paella, Whole grilled fish
Order: The bouillabaisse for two and the paella for three; the family tables run them in tandem.
Tip: Open 12:00 to 22:30 daily; the terrace is the dining room. Family sized portions for sharing.
Seafood and ceviche€€carre-d-or
Peixes in Nice's Carre d'Or near the Opera is Armand Crespo's Mediterranean seafood counter of ceviche, tartare and tataki on the daily catch from the Cours Saleya fish market.
Signature: Fish ceviche, Local fish tataki
Order: The ceviche of the day; the morning Saleya catch is in the menu by noon.
Tip: No reservations; arrive by 12:30 or 19:30 to land a stool. Tapas from EUR 7, mains around EUR 25.