Bakery€€MalakoffTue-Sat 09:00-13:00 and 15:00-19:00; closed Sun-Mon
Couleur Chocolat works in small batches on Rue Général Buat in Nantes, ganaches, pralines and mendiants beside pistachio and mango-passion sorbets.
Order: A box of ganaches and mendiants
Why locals love it: It took over the old Flandrin house on Rue Général Buat in 2016 and still works in small batches, so the counter changes with whatever has just been tempered.
Tip: The shop shuts between 13:00 and 15:00, so aim for late morning; travel cakes and jams survive the journey home better than the ice cream.
Cafe€€Hauts-PavésMon-Fri 09:30-13:00 and 14:00-17:00; closed Sat-Sun
Cime roasts specialty coffee on Rue des Hauts Pavés in Nantes every Monday and Thursday, single-origin lots scored before they reach the shelf.
Order: A single-origin lot from Ethiopia, Colombia or Peru, ground to order
Why locals love it: The roasting happens on the premises on Mondays and Thursdays and the lots are scored by a Q-Grader before they reach the shelf, so the shop smells of work rather than retail.
Tip: This is a weekday workshop rather than a coffee shop, and it closes for lunch between 13:00 and 14:00.
Italian€€€Hauts-PavésMon 12:00-15:00 and 19:30-22:00; Tue-Fri 12:00-15:00 and 19:30-23:00; closed Sat-Sun
Emporietto is the Italian osteria up a courtyard off Rue Adolphe Moitié in Nantes, seasonal pasta set against about 100 natural Italian wines.
Order: Squid ink pasta with pistachio cream and bottarga
Why locals love it: The door sits at the back of a courtyard off Rue Adolphe Moitié, in premises that were a fine-foods shop before they were an osteria, so the street gives nothing away.
Tip: Book for the evening; lunch is a shorter, cheaper card and the room is small enough that walk-ins rarely work.
Ramen€€DecréWed-Sat 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-21:30; closed Sun-Tue
Mugen Ramen on Rue Fénelon in Nantes pulls its house noodles through a pork and seafood broth simmered twelve hours, behind burnt wood panels.
Order: Tonkotsu shoyu, its pork and seafood broth simmered twelve hours
Why locals love it: Victorien Gicquel and Guillaume Dallas came home from four years at Menma in Brussels and open four days a week only, behind burnt wood panels and a two-century-old oak counter.
Tip: It opens Wednesday to Saturday only and the last bowls go before 21:30; takeaway is possible when the counter is full.
Japanese€ZolaMon-Fri 11:30-19:00; closed Sat-Sun
Soba et Sarrasin is the buckwheat workshop near Place Canclaux in Nantes, sarrasin noodles, onigiri and mochi made behind a glass laboratory.
Order: Soba salad or soba ramen, with a black sesame mochi after
Why locals love it: Sophie de Thy developed her buckwheat noodles at home for three years before opening this workshop near Place Canclaux, where they are made in a glass laboratory.
Tip: This is a takeaway counter and Japanese grocery rather than a restaurant, and it shuts at weekends; go on a weekday at lunch.
Bakery€€TalensacMon-Fri 08:30-18:30; closed Sat-Sun
Marguerite is chef Marguerite Parent's canteen across the street from her own Nantes bakery, marble floors and lunch plates that sell out fast.
Order: The chocolate and hazelnut babka
Why locals love it: Marguerite Parent runs the canteen directly opposite her own bakery, one chef on pastry and one on savoury, and the day's plates sell out well before closing.
Tip: Coffee comes from Café Machin and the chai from Destination Épices; arrive before 13:00 if you want the babka.
