The places in Nantes the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.

Food tour in Nantes

The Muscadet Experience: a fun sensory tour and tasting in Nantes

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Off the beaten plate

11 places

Emporietto

Order Squid ink pasta with pistachio cream and bottarga

Emporietto is the Italian osteria up a courtyard off Rue Adolphe Moitié in Nantes, seasonal pasta set against about 100 natural Italian wines.

Mugen Ramen

Order Tonkotsu shoyu, its pork and seafood broth simmered twelve hours

Mugen Ramen on Rue Fénelon in Nantes pulls its house noodles through a pork and seafood broth simmered twelve hours, behind burnt wood panels.

Soba et Sarrasin

Order Soba salad or soba ramen, with a black sesame mochi after

Soba et Sarrasin is the buckwheat workshop near Place Canclaux in Nantes, sarrasin noodles, onigiri and mochi made behind a glass laboratory.

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Marguerite

Order The chocolate and hazelnut babka

Marguerite is chef Marguerite Parent's canteen across the street from her own Nantes bakery, marble floors and lunch plates that sell out fast.

Les Bottes

Order Pastrami smoked by the urban smokehouse Marché noir, €90 a kilo

Les Bottes is the turquoise-fronted butcher on Rue Saint-Léonard in Nantes, whole animals from small farms hanging behind a glass cold room.

Agapè

Order The seasonal pizza, on its slightly askew sourdough base

Agapè is Pierre-Yves Combradet's locavore pizzeria on Rue Racine in Nantes, sourdough bases topped with Grandlieu raclette and Safré blue cheese.

Café Bouture

Order The pinsa at lunch, or a vegan cake with the coffee

Café Bouture on Rue Maréchal Joffre in Nantes runs a café inside a plant shop, comfort food at lunch and every plant in the room up for sale.

Couleur Chocolat

Order A box of ganaches and mendiants

Couleur Chocolat works in small batches on Rue Général Buat in Nantes, ganaches, pralines and mendiants beside pistachio and mango-passion sorbets.

Cime Torréfacteur

Order A single-origin lot from Ethiopia, Colombia or Peru, ground to order

Cime roasts specialty coffee on Rue des Hauts Pavés in Nantes every Monday and Thursday, single-origin lots scored before they reach the shelf.

Where to stay in Nantes

A sample of Nantes hotels from our booking partner, who list 125 here. Live prices and availability open on their site.

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