Epicerie L'Ideal ★ 4.4
Why locals love it: Julia Sammut's deli on Rue d'Aubagne in Noailles is run like a private kitchen for the neighbourhood that knows.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; the dinner-only room across the street is the spin-off.
Vanille Noire in Marseille's 2e Le Panier is Nicolas's artisan ice cream shop, up to 24 flavours that rotate, the signature vanille noire of vanilla, charcoal and smoke made fresh daily.
Why locals love it: Le Panier ice cream parlour on Rue Caisserie locals queue for, the vanille noire flavour stays year-round.
Tip: Up to 24 rotating flavours; second location at 2 Rue de Lorette.
Address: 13 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille
Why locals love it: Julia Sammut's deli on Rue d'Aubagne in Noailles is run like a private kitchen for the neighbourhood that knows.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; the dinner-only room across the street is the spin-off.
Why locals love it: Tourists rarely make it to L'Estaque port; locals have eaten Magali's chichis here for 78 years.
Tip: Cash only; chichis straight from the oil, panisses by the dozen in a paper cone.
Why locals love it: Newer Endoume room mostly known by locals, Carry sea urchins and Marseille clams off the morning landing.
Tip: Reservations only Saturday and Sunday lunch; walk in on Wed-Fri evenings.
Why locals love it: Tucked at the foot of the Cours Julien stairs, easy to walk past, Lilian Gadola's daily menu changes each morning.
Tip: Book the bar for a single-pour-and-plate evening; closed Sunday and Monday.
Why locals love it: Cabanon kitchen in Les Goudes village 30 minutes south of the city, rocks-on-the-water seating most visitors miss.
Tip: Bus 19 from Rond-Point du Prado or taxi; book six weeks ahead.
Why locals love it: Small natural-wine room on Rue de Lodi most tourists never reach, full by 20:00 with neighbourhood regulars.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; book the bar for a small-plates dinner.