Panisse is the Marseillais chickpea-flour fritter, a thick batter set cold then sliced and deep-fried until crisp outside and creamy within, served in a paper cone with sea salt and pepper.
Panisse arrived in Marseille with the Italian and Ligurian dockworkers from Genoa across the 19th century, the cheap chickpea-flour street snack of the workers' lunch. Chez Magali at the L'Estaque port has fried panisse since 1947 in the family kiosk, and the dish has stayed a working-class fast food eaten standing in a paper cone with a glass of pastis. The Marche des Capucins counters fry them all day as quick lunch.
Chez Magali on the L'Estaque port in Marseille's 16e has fried chichis and panisses since 1947, the Italian-imported chichis fregis recipe still cooked.
OrderPanisses and chichis fregis
TipOpen the seven-day summer schedule from May; panisses by the dozen with aioli on the side.
Marche des Capucins in Marseille's 1er Noailles runs all day with halal butchers, Tunisian pastries and counter-food stalls, cheapest fresh fast lunch.
OrderMaghrebi snacks and produce-stand lunch
TipCash is faster than card; arrive before noon for the freshest fish.
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