Bourride is the white-fleshed fish cousin of bouillabaisse, monkfish or sea bass poached in a broth bound with aioli into a creamy emulsion, served with garlic croutons and the same garlic mayonnaise on the side.
Bourride was the everyday fisherman's stew in Marseille from the 19th century, cheaper than bouillabaisse because it used a single white fish (often monkfish, anglerfish or sea bass) rather than the four rock fish of the bouillabaisse charter. The broth is bound with aioli rather than rouille, which gives it the creamy yellow colour. Chez Fonfon and Chez Michel both cook it, and Le Miramar serves the bourride as a one-fish alternative to bouillabaisse on the same menu.
Chez Fonfon in Marseille's 7e sits in the Vallon des Auffes cove and has cooked bouillabaisse for the Mounier family since 1952, the fish landed each morning.
OrderThe bouillabaisse for two, served in the traditional sequence of broth then carved fish.
TipClosed late January for two weeks; book a sea-side table at lunch for the cove light.
Chez Michel in Marseille's 7e has cooked the oldest bouillabaisse in the city since 1946, the Visciano family now in the third generation at the Catalans.
OrderThe bouillabaisse at €80 per person, two-person minimum, the canonical reference in the city.
TipReservation only; cash and card both accepted. Closed Sunday evening and Monday lunch.
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