Slow-braised beef cheek in red Provence wine, perfumed with orange peel, thyme, rosemary and black olives. Marinated overnight, simmered for hours, served traditionally on Mondays with pasta or boiled potatoes.
Daube has been the Provencal Sunday dish since the 18th century, named for the daubière, the round-bellied earthenware pot it traditionally simmers in. The Marseille version adds orange peel and black olives. Le Bouchon Provencal, Chez Etienne and Chez Madie Les Galinettes all keep daube on the winter menu. The dish was historically served on Mondays as leftover Sunday lunch reheated, with the broth strained and reduced through reheating.
Chez Fonfon in Marseille's 7e sits in the Vallon des Auffes cove and has cooked bouillabaisse for the Mounier family since 1952, the fish landed each morning.
OrderThe bouillabaisse for two, served in the traditional sequence of broth then carved fish.
TipClosed late January for two weeks; book a sea-side table at lunch for the cove light.
Chez Etienne in Marseille's 2e Panier has cooked wood-fired Marseillais pizza since 1943, no menu, cash only, the half-anchovy half-cheese the local order.
OrderThe half-anchovy half-cheese pizza, the canonical version in the city.
TipOpen Mon-Sat lunch and dinner, closed Sunday; cash only, no reservations, expect a queue.
Chez Madie Les Galinettes in Marseille's 2e has cooked the Provencal canon on the Quai du Port since 1995 under Delphine Roux, an affordable bouillabaisse.
OrderThe bouillabaisse at €59, half the price of the seafront rooms with the same view.
TipBook a terrace table for sunset; the Provencal stew at lunch is the value play.
Le Bouchon Provencal in Marseille's 1er on Place aux Huiles is a bistro of Provencal and Lyonnais lineage, two vaulted dining rooms and a lime-tree terrace.
OrderThe daube provencale and a glass of the house red on the terrace.
TipOpen Mon-Sat; the upper vaulted room is the spot on cold nights.
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