Where to eat Dungeness crab

Swan Oyster Depot ★ 4.7

Swan Oyster Depot in San Francisco is a Polk Street counter that has served cold-house Dungeness, oysters and clam chowder since 1912 in 18 stools.

OrderCrab Louie and a half-dozen Marin Miyagis on the half shell.

TipOpen 10:30-17:00 only; queue forms at 09:45 on a weekend, takes an hour at peak.

Tadich Grill ★ 4.3

Tadich Grill in San Francisco is California's oldest continuously running restaurant, opened in 1849 in the Financial District, still grilling over mesquite.

OrderSand dabs grilled over mesquite, or the Hangtown Fry at lunch.

TipNo reservations except for parties of six or more; lunch counter seats turn over fastest.

Sotto Mare ★ 4.5

Sotto Mare in San Francisco is the North Beach Italian seafood room that does the city's best cioppino, a 12-table room that takes a few reservations.

OrderThe cioppino for two; the kitchen's whole reputation in one bowl.

TipWear an apron, no exceptions; the cioppino is not negotiable on splatter.

Anchor Oyster Bar ★ 4.5

Anchor Oyster Bar in San Francisco is a 22-seat Castro counter that has served Dungeness, cioppino and clam chowder the same way since 1977.

OrderThe cioppino in season, with a side of garlic bread.

TipNo bookings; arrive at 16:30 for the early seating or after 21:00 when the line thins.

Pike Place Chowder ★ 4.7

Pike Place Chowder in Seattle is Larry Mellum's 2003 Post Alley counter: eight national chowder cook-off wins, the New England with manila clams.

TryAward-winning clam chowder

Westward ★ 4.5

Westward in Seattle on Lake Union's north shore is Renee Erickson's seafood room with a fire pit, deck chairs and the city's best whole fish off the wood.

OrderDungeness crab in season, cracked over crushed ice, with a glass of Chablis.

TipArrive by water on a Boatel from the Center for Wooden Boats for the most Seattle of dinners.

Taylor Shellfish Oyster Bar Pioneer Square ★ 4.5

Taylor Shellfish Oyster Bar in Seattle's Pioneer Square is the on-counter outpost of the 135-year Samish Bay farm: half-shells, geoduck crudo, manila clams.

OrderA dozen Olympias and Kumamotos from the farm, with a glass of grower's Champagne.

TipHappy hour 16:00-17:00 drops the oysters to $1.75 each; the Occidental location is the largest and quietest of the three.

Shaker + Spear ★ 4.3

Shaker + Spear in Seattle's Belltown is the Kimpton Palladian seafood room: a kitchen working off the Pike Place fishmongers and Hood Canal growers down.

OrderThe whole roasted rockfish with brown butter and capers, deboned tableside.

TipThe two top by the kitchen pass is the best seat for solos; happy hour 16:00-18:00 with $2 oysters.

The Walrus and the Carpenter ★ 4.8

The Walrus and the Carpenter in Seattle's Ballard is Renee Erickson's 2010 oyster room, a wood and marble bar, a chalkboard of 14 oysters. Priced at $$$.

OrderA flight of Hood Canal and Samish Bay oysters with the steak tartare and rye toast.

TipWalk-ins from 17:00 on Tuesday to Thursday; Friday and Saturday line up by 16:45 or take Resy at 16:30.

Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House ★ 4.4

Joe Fortes on Thurlow is Vancouver's long-running upmarket seafood house since 1985, named for Vancouver's first lifeguard, plus a rooftop oyster bar.

OrderA dozen Read Island oysters with a glass of BC sparkling, plus the cedar plank salmon.

TipThe rooftop oyster bar walks in for sundowner oysters from 16:00 May to September; the dining room books on OpenTable.

Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar ★ 4.6

Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar at the Sutton Place Hotel under executive chef Roger Ma runs Vancouver's reference oyster bar plus a wood-fired Pacific menu.

Book2 weeks out on OpenTable ahead

Granville Island Public Market ★ 4.7

Granville Island Public Market under the Granville Bridge since 1979 is Vancouver's reference indoor food hall, 50+ vendors, BC seafood and produce daily.

TipArrive before 11:00 to skip the cruise-ship lunch rush. Lee's Donuts and Siegel's Bagels are the local cult queues.