Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Toronto actually eats.

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Where to eat well, no fuss

25 places

Pai Northern Thai Kitchen

Order The khao soi, northern Thai egg noodles in coconut curry with crispy noodles on top.

Pai on Duncan is chef Nuit Regular's northern Thai kitchen since 2014, the khao soi from Chiang Mai that set Toronto's modern Thai standard.

Khao San Road

Order The boat noodles with beef and the pad see ew with extra char.

Khao San Road on Charlotte Street has run Bangkok-style street food downtown since 2011, the boat noodles and crispy pad see ew the city standard.

Italian tours and tastings in Toronto

2 of the casual dining on this list serve italian.

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Rol San

Order The har gow, siu mai and BBQ pork buns from the order-sheet menu.

Rol San on Spadina has run Cantonese dim sum since 1994, founded by Paul and Paulie Li, reopened at 388 Spadina in 2024 after redevelopment.

Pho Hung

Order The pho tai with brisket, plus a half order of fried chicken wings on the side.

Pho Hung on Spadina is the Chinatown Vietnamese counter the Nguyen family opened in 1985, with a 30-year broth recipe and the famous fried chicken wings.

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Sotto Sotto

Order A handmade pasta of the day and the veal piccata.

Sotto Sotto on Avenue Road has run Roman-style Italian below street level in Yorkville since 1993, chef Massimo Renzi's fresh pasta in an exposed-brick room.

Lake Inez

Order Three or four small plates and a flight from the rotating beer list.

Lake Inez on Gerrard East is chef Robbie Hojilla's pan-Asian gastropub since 2016, Filipino, Thai, Vietnamese and Korean plates with a 24-tap beer list.

Patois

Order The Double Down sandwich, jerk chicken between two Jamaican patties.

Patois on Dundas West is chef Craig Wong's Jamaican-Chinese fusion kitchen since 2014, fine-dining French training applied to Caribbean home cooking.

Mamakas Taverna

Order The whole grilled fish, dressed Aegean style with lemon and olive oil.

Mamakas Taverna on Ossington is owner Thanos Tripi's 85-seat Aegean kitchen since 2015, traditional Greek taverna cooking from scratch each morning.

Salt Wine Bar

Order A round of tapas at the bar with a Portuguese white from the cellar.

Salt Wine Bar at the north end of Ossington is chef Dave Kemp's Iberian-Canadian tapas room since 2009 with a Portuguese-leaning natural wine list.

Byblos Downtown

Order The mezze board to start and a wood-grilled main from the menu.

Byblos Downtown on Duncan Street is Charles Khabouth's Eastern Mediterranean room since 2014, family-style plates spread across the Storys Building.

Fran's Restaurant

Order The all-day breakfast with two eggs, toast and bottomless coffee.

Fran's Restaurant at College and Yonge has run a 24-hour diner since 1940, the breakfast served at any hour the post-shift staple plus Reubens and burgers.

Lahore Tikka House

Order A platter of seekh kebab, butter chicken and a fresh naan from the tandoor.

Lahore Tikka House on Gerrard East is Little India's reference Pakistani halal kitchen since 1996, tandoor-grilled meats in a Persian-tile dining room.

Centre Street Deli

Order The classic smoked meat sandwich on rye with mustard and a pickle.

Centre Street Deli on Bay Street is the 2024 downtown outpost of the Thornhill original since 1988, Montreal-style smoked meat hand-sliced over light rye.