Little Italy still sets the tone for Italian Montreal: Impasto cooks market-driven pasta on Rue Dante, the same street as Pizzeria Napoletana, the cash-only BYOB institution running since 1948. The newer wave belongs to Emma Cardarelli, whose dim southern-Italian room Nora Gray sits on Saint-Jacques and whose sunnier Elena spins sourdough pizza in Saint-Henri. Add Liverpool House's lobster spaghetti in Little Burgundy and Moccione's tiny hand-rolled pasta in Villeray and the city's Italian bench runs deep.
Elena is the Nora Gray team's sunny coffee, pizza and wine room in Saint-Henri, Montreal, spinning sourdough pizza and Italian small plates off Notre-Dame.
OrderA blistered sourdough pizza and a spritz.
TipDaytime is coffee and pastries; the pizza and wine crowd arrives after five.
Impasto is the rustic Italian room on Rue Dante in Montreal's Little Italy, cooking market-driven pasta and salumi a short walk from the Jean-Talon Market.
OrderThe house-made pasta of the day and a plate of salumi.
TipLunch is quieter and cheaper; the same kitchen, fewer crowds than dinner.
Moccione is a tiny, charming Italian trattoria on Saint-Denis in Villeray, Montreal, hand-rolling pasta and pouring Italian wine in a snug neighbourhood room.
OrderThe cacio e pepe or whichever pasta is fresh that night.
TipIt seats barely thirty; book ahead or aim for an early weeknight table.
Le Serpent is a sleek Italian-leaning bistro in a converted foundry in Old Montreal, plating confident pasta and grilled mains near the Fonderie Darling.
OrderA plate of pasta and whatever is grilled over coals.
TipThe concrete room is loud and fun; book the early seating for a slightly calmer meal.
Pizzeria Napoletana has fed Montreal's Little Italy since 1948, a cash-only, BYOB institution on Rue Dante turning out thin-crust pizza and hearty pasta.
OrderA thin-crust pizza and a plate of pasta, with a bottle of your own wine.
TipIt is cash-only and bring-your-own-wine, with no reservations; arrive early to beat the queue.
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