Malaysian$$cbdTue-Sun 11:30am-9:30pm
Ho Jiak on Rainbow Alley references Penang and KL regional traditions: precise Malaysian cooking with handmade roti at the counter in a compact laneway space.
Order: Char kuay teow with wok hei and fresh cockles
Vegan Middle Eastern pub$$carltonMon-Thu 2pm-late, Fri-Sun 12pm-late
Green Man's Arms on Lygon Street is Carlton's fully vegan pub: Middle Eastern small plates, house falafel and kombucha on tap in a corner hotel with live music.
Order: House falafel with hummus and Yemeni lahuh bread
Modern Australian$$$cbdMon-Fri 7am-11pm, Sat-Sun 8am-11pm
Cumulus Inc. on Flinders Lane is the CBD's best all-day operator: raw bar at the counter, whole roasted chicken for the table and a wine list worth exploring.
Order: Whole roasted chicken with seasonal sides
French$$cbdMon-Fri 7am-late, Sat-Sun 8am-late
Maison Batard's ground-floor boulangerie feeds the CBD from 7am; by noon the bistro above opens for French classics and a wine list without a bad bottle.
Order: French onion soup with a gruyere crust
Modern Australian$$brunswick-eastMon-Thu 4pm-9:30pm, Fri-Sat 4pm-11:30pm
Daphne is a public house in spirit: seasonal menu, cocktails and a wine list for conversation in a Brunswick East room that became a local anchor fast.
Order: Fried cheese with honey and walnuts
French$$$south-yarraDaily 12pm-12am
France-Soir on Toorak Road has served classical French food since 1982: the menu barely changes, theatrical service and an honest wine list.
Order: Steak frites with French mustard and frisee salad
Tip: Book ahead for Friday and Saturday evenings: it fills well before 8pm.