district-10Daily 15:00-23:00
Ho Thi Ky is Saigon's best-loved night food street, a maze of alleys behind the flower market crammed with stalls of banh trang, snails, grilled skewers.
Order: Banh trang tron and a plate of grilled snails.
Tip: Come hungry after dark and graze from stall to stall; it is busiest and best from 19:00.
district-5Daily 07:00-18:00
An Dong is one of Saigon's oldest and largest indoor markets, a wholesale fashion hall in District 5 whose basement food court draws locals for Cho Lon eats.
Order: A bowl of che or a plate of banh from the basement food court.
Tip: Skip the upstairs clothing floors and head straight to the basement food stalls.
district-1Daily 06:00-18:00
Cho Cu, the Old Market, is a one-block street market on Ton That Dam in the shadow of downtown towers, a fast-vanishing pocket of old Saigon selling produce.
Order: A grab-and-go banh mi or fruit from the street vendors.
Tip: It is steadily being demolished for development; go soon to see this slice of old downtown.
district-4Daily 16:00-24:00
Vinh Khanh is District 4's official food street, a kilometre of seafood and snail joints where locals crowd pavement tables at night for oc and grills.
Order: A spread of snails and grilled scallops with beer.
Tip: It comes alive after dark; go with a group and order many small snail plates to share.
tan-dinhDaily 05:00-18:00
Tan Dinh Market, trading since 1926 by the pink Tan Dinh Church, is a local produce and fabric market whose surrounding stalls serve fine street food.
Order: Banh canh cua or a snack from the stalls ringing the market.
Tip: Skip the fabric floors and graze the food stalls around the market's edges in the morning.
pham-ngu-laoDaily 06:00-18:00
Thai Binh Market sits on the edge of the backpacker district, a workaday produce market whose corner stalls turn out cheap noodle salads, che and snacks.
Order: A cheap noodle salad or a cup of che from the corner stalls.
Tip: It is a two-minute walk from Bui Vien; the food stalls at the entrances are the reason to stop.