District 5
An Dong is one of Saigon's oldest and largest indoor markets, a wholesale fashion hall in District 5 whose basement food court draws locals for Cho Lon eats.
OrderA bowl of che or a plate of banh from the basement food court.
TipSkip the upstairs clothing floors and head straight to the basement food stalls.
District 1
Cho Cu, the Old Market, is a one-block street market on Ton That Dam in the shadow of downtown towers, a fast-vanishing pocket of old Saigon selling produce.
OrderA grab-and-go banh mi or fruit from the street vendors.
TipIt is steadily being demolished for development; go soon to see this slice of old downtown.
District 4
Vinh Khanh is District 4's official food street, a kilometre of seafood and snail joints where locals crowd pavement tables at night for oc and grills.
OrderA spread of snails and grilled scallops with beer.
TipIt comes alive after dark; go with a group and order many small snail plates to share.
Tan Dinh
Tan Dinh Market, trading since 1926 by the pink Tan Dinh Church, is a local produce and fabric market whose surrounding stalls serve fine street food.
OrderBanh canh cua or a snack from the stalls ringing the market.
TipSkip the fabric floors and graze the food stalls around the market's edges in the morning.
Pham Ngu Lao
Thai Binh Market sits on the edge of the backpacker district, a workaday produce market whose corner stalls turn out cheap noodle salads, che and snacks.
OrderA cheap noodle salad or a cup of che from the corner stalls.
TipIt is a two-minute walk from Bui Vien; the food stalls at the entrances are the reason to stop.
Binh Thanh
Ba Chieu is one of Binh Thanh's oldest markets, a sprawling local hall best known among eaters for the dense ring of street-food stalls that surround it.
OrderGrilled snacks and che from the surrounding street stalls.
TipThe food is around the outside, not inside; the night market from 18:00 is the liveliest time.