The places in Ho Chi Minh City the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.

Off the beaten plate

The Cafe Apartment ★ 4.2

$$ CafeDistrict 1

Why locals goA 1960s residential block on the walking street now stacked with 40-odd independent cafes, tea rooms and hidden bars across nine floors, easy to walk past at ground level.

TipPay a small fee for the lift or climb the stairs floor by floor; each landing hides a different cafe.

Khong Trung Drink and Screen ★ 4.0

$$ Cocktail barDistrict 1

Why locals goA tiny rooftop drink-and-movie spot down a Da Kao alley where regulars watch old films projected onto the neighbour's wall, known mostly through the Saigoneer hem-gems crowd.

TipIt is deep down a residential hem; go up to the rooftop and settle in for the film and a drink.

Cheo Leo Cafe ★ 4.3

$ CafeDistrict 3

Why locals goOne of Saigon's oldest cafes, open since the late 1930s and still brewing robusta over charcoal in cloth filters, tucked down an alley off Nguyen Thien Thuat that tourists miss.

TipOrder the charcoal-brewed ca phe sua da and sit on a low stool; this is a coffee ritual, not a laptop cafe.

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