$$$$Seafood
Atelier Crenn in San Francisco is Dominique Crenn's three-Michelin-star Cow Hollow flagship, a poetry-of-cuisine vegetable-and-seafood tasting in 30 seats.
TipSit at the chef's counter in the back for a longer hand-off and more conversation with the line.
$$$$ChineseChinatown
Mister Jiu's in San Francisco is Brandon Jew's Cal-Chinese flagship in old Chinatown, holding a Michelin star and a separate cocktail bar worth a visit alone.
OrderThe whole roast Mongolian duck with house pancakes, ordered ahead.
TipSit in the upstairs bar Moongate Lounge and order from the full menu without committing to the tasting.
$$$$Modern Mexican TastingSoma Yerba Buena
Californios in San Francisco is Val Cantu's two-Michelin-star modern Mexican tasting room, 16 seats, the most cerebral table in the city right now.
OrderWhatever the corn course is on the night; the kitchen sources nixtamal heirloom corns directly.
TipThere is only one seating a night; book six weeks out for any Friday or Saturday.
$$$$Californian
Saison in San Francisco is a three-Michelin-star hearth-driven tasting in SoMa, with live-fire seafood and California game over an oak fire.
TipCounter seats face the fire; the four-top tables at the back catch less of the kitchen action.
$$$$Korean
Benu in San Francisco is Corey Lee's three-Michelin-star modern Korean American tasting in SoMa, with a 14-seat counter and a 30-course pace through three.
TipThe bar at sister Monsieur Benjamin takes walk-ins and runs the same culture on a bistro budget.
$$$$Modern Mexican
Californios in San Francisco is Val Cantu's two-Michelin-star modern Mexican tasting in SoMa, with masa from heritage corns nixtamalised in-house.
TipThe wine pairing is a strong commit; the agave pairing is the move if you want sotol and mezcal.
$$$$New AmericanThe Mission
Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a dinner party for 40 guests across two communal tables.
OrderThe bread course with the cultured butter; ten years on it is still the marker.
TipTickets release on the 1st of each month for 60 days out; sign up to the email waitlist for advance notice.
$$$$Californian
Quince in San Francisco is Michael Tusk's three-Michelin-star Jackson Square room, an Italian-inflected California tasting from the Fresh Run Farm produce.
TipThe neighbouring Cotogna sister room runs the same kitchen at a quarter the price, with walk-in seating.
$$$$Californian
Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a communal dinner party for 40 guests across two long tables.
TipBring a notebook; the kitchen hands out a course list and pencils, and the menu rotates fast.
$$$$Pacific Northwest
Birdsong in San Francisco is Christopher Bleidorn's two-Michelin-star Pacific Northwest tasting in SoMa, with a hearth-cooked menu rooted in foraging.
TipThe kitchen-counter four-top is the best seat; ask for it when booking opens at 09:00 Pacific.
$$$$Chinese
Mister Jiu's in San Francisco is Brandon Jew's one-Michelin-star Cal-Chinese flagship in Chinatown, with whole-duck dinners and an upstairs cocktail room.
TipBook the whole roast duck 48 hours ahead by phone; it does not appear on the website ordering form.
$$$$CaliforniaLower Pac Heights
Octavia in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Michelin-starred Pacific Heights room, with day-boat fish and a market-led California plate at every service.
OrderWhatever whole fish the kitchen has, with whatever vegetable lands that morning.
TipTuesday and Wednesday are easier seatings; the heirloom tomato course is the August set piece.
$$$$Californian
Rich Table in San Francisco is Evan and Sarah Rich's one-Michelin-star Hayes Valley room near the opera house, with the city's most-cited house pasta program.
TipThe chef-counter tasting is the best seat in the room and adds a hand-rolled pasta supplement.
$$$$Californian
Octavia in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's one-Michelin-star Pacific Heights room with a day-boat fish set menu and a long market-driven a la carte.
TipThe heirloom tomato course in August is the year's set piece; book at the end of July to land an August seat.
$$$$Thai
Kin Khao in San Francisco is Pim Techamuanvivit's one-Michelin-star regional Thai room near Union Square, with a kitchen set menu rotating the rabbit green.
TipThe $95 set menu is better value than ordering a la carte; ask whether the cold larb is running.
$$$$Californian
Spruce in San Francisco is Mark Sullivan's one-Michelin-star Presidio Heights bistro with a dry-aged steak programme, a deep cellar and a cheese trolley.
TipThe bar room takes walk-ins; the side-cart cheese trolley is the closing move regardless of where you sit.