Mexican taqueria$the-mission
Taqueria El Buen Sabor in San Francisco is a family-run Valencia Street taqueria at Valencia and 18th, serving the Mission since 1995 at sub-twelve-dollar prices.
Signature: Carne asada super burrito, Al pastor tacos, Tortas
Order: The carne asada super burrito with everything and a cold horchata.
Tip: Open 11:00 to 21:30 daily; busiest at 13:00, quieter for an early dinner at 17:00.
Mexican taqueria$the-mission
La Taqueria in San Francisco is Miguel Jara's Mission taqueria, James Beard America's Classic, with no-rice burritos and doubled corn tacos since 1973.
Signature: Carnitas burrito (no rice), Carne asada tacos
Order: The dorado-style burrito: rolled, then crisped on the plancha with a sear.
Tip: Cash and card accepted; the line moves fast even at 13:00 because each taquero builds with both hands.
Mexican taqueria$the-mission
El Farolito in San Francisco is the Mission's all-night taqueria, opened in 1980 on 24th and Mission, with the super burrito that set the modern bar.
Signature: Super burrito, Quesadilla suiza, Al pastor tacos
Order: Super burrito al pastor with everything, plus a horchata.
Tip: Open until 02:30 on Friday and Saturday; the 23:00 to 01:00 window has the fastest line of the night.
Mexican taqueria$the-mission
La Cumbre in San Francisco is the Valencia Street taqueria credited with the modern Mission burrito format, founded by the Duran family in 1972.
Signature: Carne asada burrito, Pollo tacos, Pinto beans
Order: Carne asada super burrito, the room's invention from 1972.
Tip: Pinto over black beans here; the kitchen renders pork fat into the pintos and they sing.
Italian$$embarcadero
Cotogna in San Francisco is Michael Tusk's casual Italian next to three-star Quince, with a wood oven turning out pizza and a Piedmontese pasta board.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Tagliatelle bolognese, Roast chicken
Order: The agnolotti dal plin with brown butter and sage, on the daily pasta list.
Tip: Walk in at 17:30 for the bar seats; the dining room books two weeks ahead.
Pizza$$north-beach
Tony's Pizza Napoletana in San Francisco is Tony Gemignani's North Beach room, with 13 ovens running 7 pizza styles and a long list of World Pizza Cup wins.
Signature: Margherita STG, Cal Italia, Detroit-style
Order: Margherita STG, limited to 73 a day and cooked at 900 degrees.
Tip: The Margherita STG is capped at 73 per day; arrive at 17:00 to lock one in or expect a sell-out by 19:30.