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CreoleLower Pac Heights
Brenda's French Soul Food in San Francisco is Brenda Buenviaje's Creole counter on Polk Street, with crawfish beignets and a strong brunch shrimp and grits.
OrderA flight of beignets: plain, chocolate, granny apple and crawfish.
TipNo reservations; arrive at 09:00 sharp or join the digital waitlist that opens at 08:30.
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CantoneseChinatown
Yuet Lee in San Francisco is the Chinatown all-night Cantonese counter at Stockton and Broadway, open to 03:00, with salt-and-pepper squid the late shift.
OrderSalt and pepper squid, plus a steamed live fish from the tank.
TipCash only after midnight; the kitchen window seats fill the fastest at 23:30.
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Cantonese Dim SumChinatown
Good Mong Kok in San Francisco is the Stockton Street Cantonese takeaway window the city actually eats at on weekends, with hot trays out from 07:00-18:00.
OrderChar siu bao and a tray of har gow; ten items for under fifteen dollars.
TipCash only; bring a clear list of items because the line behind you moves at speed.
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ItalianDogpatch
Piccino in San Francisco is the Dogpatch Italian on a yellow corner, with wood-oven pizza. Priced at $$$. At 1001 Minnesota Street. Booking recommended.
OrderWood-oven mushroom and ricotta pizza, plus the seasonal pasta of the night.
TipBrunch the patio in spring; the cafe next door pours the same coffee at half the price.
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PakistaniLower Pac Heights
Shalimar in San Francisco is the Tenderloin's cash-and-card Pakistani counter, with a tandoor at the door turning out solid chicken tikka under fifteen.
OrderChicken tikka from the tandoor, with garlic naan and dal.
TipEat at the back of the room; the front benches give you a view of the tandoor cook at speed.
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VietnameseLower Pac Heights
Saigon Sandwich in San Francisco is the Larkin Street banh mi window: six bucks for a roll, with a fast line out the door by noon every weekday.
OrderPork banh mi number one with extra pate, and a Vietnamese iced coffee.
TipCash only; order four at once and bring them home; the bread stays good for three hours wrapped.