Italian$$$dogpatch
Piccino in San Francisco is the Dogpatch Italian on a yellow corner, with wood-oven pizza, a corner cafe and a wisteria-shaded patio that fills in May.
Signature: Wood-oven pizza, Garganelli, Wood-grilled chicken
Order: Wood-oven mushroom and ricotta pizza, plus the seasonal pasta of the night.
Tip: Brunch the patio in spring; the cafe next door pours the same coffee at half the price.
Pakistani$lower-pac-heights
Shalimar in San Francisco is the Tenderloin's cash-and-card Pakistani counter, with a tandoor at the door turning out solid chicken tikka under fifteen dollars.
Signature: Chicken tikka, Lamb karahi, Garlic naan
Order: Chicken tikka from the tandoor, with garlic naan and dal.
Tip: Eat at the back of the room; the front benches give you a view of the tandoor cook at speed.
Vietnamese$lower-pac-heights
Saigon Sandwich in San Francisco is the Larkin Street banh mi window: six bucks for a roll, with a fast line out the door by noon every weekday.
Signature: Pork banh mi, Vietnamese iced coffee
Order: Pork banh mi number one with extra pate, and a Vietnamese iced coffee.
Tip: Cash only; order four at once and bring them home; the bread stays good for three hours wrapped.
Mexican taqueria$the-mission
Taqueria Cancun in San Francisco is the Mission taqueria on 16th and Mission, the baseline burrito mojado the city falls back on, open late every night.
Signature: Burrito mojado, Al pastor super burrito, Carne asada quesadilla
Order: The burrito mojado, smothered in three sauces (guacamole, sour cream, salsa roja) and a side of horchata.
Tip: Mission and 16th is the busiest of the three locations; the 24th Street branch at 3211 Mission has a shorter line at lunch.
Chinese (contemporary)$$chinatown
Z & Y Bistro in San Francisco is the contemporary sister to Chinatown's Z & Y on the same Jackson Street block, with yakitori, Lanzhou ramen and Sichuan classics.
Signature: Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles, Yakitori skewers, Hot pot
Order: Lanzhou hand-pulled beef noodle soup and a plate of cold sesame noodles.
Tip: Closed Tuesdays; the bistro books up earlier than the main Z & Y on weekends.
Mexican (Mexico City-style)$$marina-cow-hollow
Tacolicious in San Francisco is the Mexico City-inspired taqueria on Chestnut Street in the Marina, with a Mission-style sister on Valencia.
Signature: Al pastor-ish chicken tacos, Carnitas tacos, Marina Girl salad
Order: A trio of al pastor-ish chicken, shot-and-a-beer braised brisket, and the guajillo-braised chicken.
Tip: The bar pours a sharp tommy's margarita; sit there for walk-in tacos before the dining room fills.