Modern Californian$$$little-italy
Juniper and Ivy in San Diego is Top Chef alumnus Richard Blais's Kettner Boulevard room in a 1920s sawtooth warehouse, the modernist Californian kitchen that opened in 2014.
Signature: In-N-Haute (riff on In-N-Out), Crispy Brussels sprouts, Yellowtail crudo
Order: The In-N-Haute, Blais's elevated take on the In-N-Out double-double, on the snack menu most nights.
Tip: Anthony Wells now runs the kitchen day to day; the snack menu at the bar is the most affordable entry.
Modern American$$$little-italy
Kettner Exchange in San Diego is the Brian Malarkey-designed rooftop dining room on Kettner Boulevard in Little Italy, a tri-level space with a covered indoor-outdoor terrace.
Signature: Crispy lamb shank, Tuna tartare, Korean BBQ ribs
Order: The crispy lamb shank, on the menu since opening; the Korean BBQ ribs to share.
Tip: Brunch on the rooftop runs Saturday and Sunday; book the terrace, not the indoor dining room.
Seafood$$$little-italy
Ironside Fish and Oyster in San Diego is Consortium Holdings' India Street raw bar in Little Italy, with a piranha-skull-clad back wall and an extensive Pacific and East Coast oyster list.
Signature: Oyster tower, Lobster roll, Whole grilled branzino
Order: The Connecticut-style lobster roll, hot with butter; the oyster tower to share.
Tip: Happy hour at the bar runs $2 oysters Mon-Fri 3pm-5pm; the back patio gets sun until 7pm.
Italian$$$little-italy
Davanti Enoteca in San Diego is the Scott Harris Hospitality Italian trattoria on India Street, a Northern Italian wine-bar room with house-made pasta and the Genoese focaccia di Recco.
Signature: Burrata with honeycomb, Cacio e pepe, Focaccia di Recco
Order: The focaccia di Recco with stracchino cheese; the cacio e pepe is the canonical secondi.
Tip: Walk-ins are taken at the bar; book the patio for warmer nights and the Saturday Mercato crowd-watching.
Coastal Californian fine dining$$$$la-jolla
The Marine Room in La Jolla is Bernard Guillas's coastal fine-dining room at La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club since 1994, with waves breaking on the glass during high tide.
Signature: Crab cake, King-tide-table whitefish, Sunday Champagne brunch
Order: King-tide-table seating for the surf-on-the-window experience; the crab cake is the room's signature.
Tip: Check the king-tide calendar at marineroom.com for the dramatic high-tide nights; book the window six weeks ahead.
Modern Californian$$$$la-jolla
George's at the Cove in La Jolla is George Hauer's three-level Prospect Street institution since 1984: George's Level2 fine dining upstairs, George's Ocean Terrace for casual ocean-view eats.
Signature: Roasted duck, Local fish crudo, Smoked tomato soup
Order: The smoked tomato soup with grilled cheese; the roasted duck on the Level2 menu.
Tip: Book Ocean Terrace at sunset for the casual ocean-view version; Level2 is the fine-dining tasting menu room.