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ItalianLittle Italy
Davanti Enoteca in San Diego is the Scott Harris Hospitality Italian trattoria on India Street, a Northern Italian wine-bar room with house-made pasta.
OrderThe focaccia di Recco with stracchino cheese; the cacio e pepe is the canonical secondi.
TipWalk-ins are taken at the bar; book the patio for warmer nights and the Saturday Mercato crowd-watching.
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CalifornianLa Jolla
The Marine Room in La Jolla is Bernard Guillas's coastal fine-dining room at La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club since 1994, with waves breaking on the glass.
OrderKing-tide-table seating for the surf-on-the-window experience; the crab cake is the room's signature.
TipCheck the king-tide calendar at marineroom.com for the dramatic high-tide nights; book the window six weeks ahead.
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Modern CalifornianLa Jolla
George's at the Cove in La Jolla is George Hauer's three-level Prospect Street institution since 1984: George's Level2 fine dining upstairs.
OrderThe smoked tomato soup with grilled cheese; the roasted duck on the Level2 menu.
TipBook Ocean Terrace at sunset for the casual ocean-view version; Level2 is the fine-dining tasting menu room.
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Modern AmericanBankers Hill
Mister A's in San Diego is the 12th-floor Bankers Hill rooftop room atop the Manchester Financial Building, with panoramic views of the bay.
OrderThe Dover sole boned tableside; the Caesar for two with white anchovies.
TipReserve a window booth at sunset; planes from the airport tip directly toward the room during the descent.
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Modern AmericanHillcrest
Trust Restaurant in San Diego is Brad Wise's Hillcrest neighborhood room since 2016, the small-plates wood-fire kitchen that anchors Wise's Trust Restaurant.
OrderThe wood-grilled octopus on a smear of harissa; the cauliflower steak as the vegetarian centrepiece.
TipBook counter seats for the open-fire kitchen view; the Group also runs Fort Oak and Rare Society if Trust is full.
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ItalianPoint Loma
Cesarina in San Diego is Cesarina Mezzoni's Point Loma trattoria on Voltaire Street, a glass-walled pastificio where you can watch hand-rolled eggless pasta.
OrderThe tortelli di zucca with butter and sage; the tagliatelle al ragu finished tableside.
TipThe eggless dough is unusual; ask for it explicitly if you want the canonical Cesarina experience.