A creamy sherry-finished Chesapeake blue-crab soup, named for the female crab whose roe enriches the soup. The Virginia tea-table classic alongside peanut soup.

She-crab soup traces to coastal South Carolina (Charleston claims the original recipe) and spread up the Atlantic coast through nineteenth-century Tidewater Virginia. The dish became a Virginia tea-table staple, alongside peanut soup. The female blue crab's roe gives the broth its richness; today Chesapeake Bay regulations restrict harvesting female crabs to certain windows, so most Richmond kitchens use pasteurised crab meat without roe and finish the soup with a measured pour of dry sherry.

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Make it at home

Serves 435 minIntermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g lump blue crab meat, picked over for shell
  • 1 medium onion, finely diced
  • 1 stalk celery, finely diced
  • 3 tbsp unsalted butter
  • 3 tbsp all-purpose flour
  • 750ml fish or seafood stock
  • 200ml heavy cream
  • 60ml dry sherry
  • Pinch of mace or nutmeg
  • Salt, white pepper, lemon wedge

Method

  1. Sweat onion and celery in butter over low heat 8 to 10 minutes.
  2. Add flour, cook 2 minutes. Whisk in stock, simmer 10 minutes until thickened.
  3. Add cream, mace and most of the crab. Simmer gently 5 minutes; do not boil.
  4. Off heat, stir in sherry. Season. Serve in warm bowls, garnish with remaining crab and a squeeze of lemon.

Editor tip. Sherry goes in at the end, off the heat. Boiling it cooks off the alcohol but also the perfume.