Shad roe is the seasonal James River delicacy: the egg sac of the migrating American shad, pan-fried in butter with bacon. Available only March through April.

American shad spawned in the James River for centuries; the spring shad run was a key food source for Indigenous Powhatan peoples and colonial Richmond alike. Industrial damming and pollution decimated the runs through the 20th century, but contemporary restoration efforts brought the fish back. The shad-roe season runs March through early April; Richmond fish markets receive limited supplies, and Lemaire and other downtown kitchens build short-window menus around it.

Where to eat Shad roe in Richmond

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Make it at home

Serves 220 minIntermediate

Ingredients

  • 1 pair shad roe (about 250g)
  • 4 slices thick-cut bacon
  • 2 tbsp unsalted butter
  • Plain flour for dusting
  • Salt, black pepper
  • 1 lemon, cut into wedges

Method

  1. Cook bacon slowly in a heavy pan to render fat. Remove bacon when crisp, reserve.
  2. Carefully separate the shad-roe sacs. Pat dry, dust lightly in seasoned flour.
  3. Add butter to the bacon-fat pan. Lay shad roe in over medium-low heat. Cook gently 4 minutes per side, basting; the membrane is delicate.
  4. Serve at once on warm plates with bacon crumbled on top and lemon wedges alongside.

Editor tip. Cook slowly. High heat blows the membrane and the eggs scatter. Medium-low, patient turning, baste with butter.