Thai BBQ$$mississippi-williams
The Earl Ninsom, Eric Nelson and Matt Vicedomini collaboration on N Williams in Portland, where Thai marinade meets Texas-style smoked beef brisket.
Signature: White curry with burnt brisket ends, Crispy chicken
Order: White curry with burnt brisket ends over jasmine rice
Tip: The cocktail list is the Eric Nelson programme that earned the room a James Beard semifinalist nod. Order the tamarind whisky sour.
Korean$$$east-burnside-kerns
Peter Cho and Sun Young Park's family-table Korean room in the Kerns neighbourhood of Portland, The Oregonian's 2017 Restaurant of the Year.
Signature: Hand-pulled noodles, Galbi
Order: The dumpling and noodle prix fixe
Tip: Open Thursday to Sunday for the family-style prix fixe. Saturday brunch is a la carte and easier to book.
Russian and Georgian$$hawthorne-belmont
Bonnie Morales's Russian and Georgian room in southeast Portland, with infused vodkas, pelmeni dumplings and the city's most authoritative zakuski spread.
Signature: Pelmeni, Khachapuri
Order: The Siberian pelmeni with brown butter and vinegar
Tip: Lunch is counter service and walk-in only. Dinner takes reservations and the vodka flights are mandatory.
Indonesian and Malaysian$$division-clinton
Mariah and Thomas Pisha-Duffly's Indonesian and Malaysian room on SE Division in Portland, all disco balls, sea-creature wallpaper and bold sambal.
Signature: Mie goreng, Beef rendang
Order: The beef rendang with coconut rice
Tip: The bar runs a strong cocktail programme worth arriving early for. Plates are sized to share.
Middle Eastern$$$east-burnside-kerns
The bright, plant-forward Middle Eastern room on East Burnside in Portland, open since 2016 with Pacific Northwest produce on every plate.
Signature: Lamb shoulder, Mezze platter
Order: The slow-roasted lamb shoulder with sumac and pomegranate
Tip: Open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The covered patio is the best seat in summer.
Peruvian$$$pearl-district
Peter Platt and Doris Rodriguez de Platt's Peruvian dining room in the Pearl District of Portland, open since 2003 with PNW produce and ceviche.
Signature: Ceviche mixto, Lomo saltado
Order: The classic ceviche mixto
Tip: Live Latin music in the bar every night. Happy hour from 16:00 to 17:00 is the best value in the Pearl.