Peruvian$$$pearl-district
Peter Platt and Doris Rodriguez de Platt's Peruvian dining room in the Pearl District of Portland, open since 2003 with PNW produce and ceviche.
Signature: Ceviche mixto, Lomo saltado
Order: The classic ceviche mixto
Tip: Live Latin music in the bar every night. Happy hour from 16:00 to 17:00 is the best value in the Pearl.
Pan-Asian$$$downtown
The 15th-floor pan-Asian rooftop at The Nines in downtown Portland, with two outdoor decks and the city's largest sake list. Modern Asian cooking.
Signature: Kushiyaki, Kobe meatballs
Order: The kushiyaki tasting flight from the grill
Tip: Two outdoor decks with views of Mount Hood. Sunset is the seat to book.
European$$hawthorne-belmont
Portland's first salumeria, now a refined European bistro in the Central Eastside with house-cured charcuterie and a long pastry bar at the front.
Signature: Charcuterie board, Choucroute royale
Order: The chef's charcuterie board with house-baked rye
Tip: Choucroute royale is on the menu year-round but tastes right in winter. Brunch on weekends from 10:00.
Indian street food$$alberta-arts
Troy MacLarty's spice-loud Indian street-food canteen on NE Alberta in Portland, modelled on the chaat stalls of Mumbai and Hyderabad since 2012.
Signature: Vada pav, Kati roll
Order: The vada pav with green chutney
Tip: Counter order, table service. The Division Street outpost has closed; Alberta is the original room.
Mediterranean$$$pearl-district
John Gorham's Mediterranean room in the Pearl District of Portland, from Morocco to Turkey to Greece in one big family-style menu since 2014.
Signature: Lamb tagine, Octopus mechouia
Order: The lamb shoulder mechoui for the table
Tip: Family-style is the move. Two people order three dishes; six people order eight.
French bistro$$$east-burnside-kerns
Gabriel Rucker's relaxed all-day bistro next door to Le Pigeon on East Burnside in Portland, with foie gras dumplings and a steam burger worth the line.
Signature: Duck stack pancakes, Steam burger
Order: The duck-egg-topped pancakes
Tip: All-day service from 09:00 means Canard absorbs Le Pigeon's overflow. Walk-ins for the bar.