The Earl Ninsom, Eric Nelson and Matt Vicedomini collaboration on N Williams in Portland, where Thai marinade meets Texas-style smoked beef brisket.
Signature dishes: White curry with burnt brisket ends, Crispy chicken
Must order: White curry with burnt brisket ends over jasmine rice
Tip: The cocktail list is the Eric Nelson programme that earned the room a James Beard semifinalist nod. Order the tamarind whisky sour.
Address: 3808 N Williams Ave, Portland, OR 97227
Peter Cho and Sun Young Park's family-table Korean room in the Kerns neighbourhood of Portland, The Oregonian's 2017 Restaurant of the Year.
Signature: Hand-pulled noodles, Galbi
Order: The dumpling and noodle prix fixe
Tip: Open Thursday to Sunday for the family-style prix fixe. Saturday brunch is a la carte and easier to book.
Bonnie Morales's Russian and Georgian room in southeast Portland, with infused vodkas, pelmeni dumplings and the city's most authoritative zakuski spread.
Signature: Pelmeni, Khachapuri
Order: The Siberian pelmeni with brown butter and vinegar
Tip: Lunch is counter service and walk-in only. Dinner takes reservations and the vodka flights are mandatory.
Mariah and Thomas Pisha-Duffly's Indonesian and Malaysian room on SE Division in Portland, all disco balls, sea-creature wallpaper and bold sambal.
Signature: Mie goreng, Beef rendang
Order: The beef rendang with coconut rice
Tip: The bar runs a strong cocktail programme worth arriving early for. Plates are sized to share.
The bright, plant-forward Middle Eastern room on East Burnside in Portland, open since 2016 with Pacific Northwest produce on every plate.
Signature: Lamb shoulder, Mezze platter
Order: The slow-roasted lamb shoulder with sumac and pomegranate
Tip: Open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The covered patio is the best seat in summer.
Peter Platt and Doris Rodriguez de Platt's Peruvian dining room in the Pearl District of Portland, open since 2003 with PNW produce and ceviche.
Signature: Ceviche mixto, Lomo saltado
Order: The classic ceviche mixto
Tip: Live Latin music in the bar every night. Happy hour from 16:00 to 17:00 is the best value in the Pearl.
The 15th-floor pan-Asian rooftop at The Nines in downtown Portland, with two outdoor decks and the city's largest sake list. Modern Asian cooking.
Signature: Kushiyaki, Kobe meatballs
Order: The kushiyaki tasting flight from the grill
Tip: Two outdoor decks with views of Mount Hood. Sunset is the seat to book.
