Russian and Georgian$$hawthorne-belmont
Bonnie Morales's Russian and Georgian room in southeast Portland, with infused vodkas, pelmeni dumplings and the city's most authoritative zakuski spread.
Signature: Pelmeni, Khachapuri
Order: The Siberian pelmeni with brown butter and vinegar
Tip: Lunch is counter service and walk-in only. Dinner takes reservations and the vodka flights are mandatory.
Indonesian and Malaysian$$division-clinton
Mariah and Thomas Pisha-Duffly's Indonesian and Malaysian room on SE Division in Portland, all disco balls, sea-creature wallpaper and bold sambal.
Signature: Mie goreng, Beef rendang
Order: The beef rendang with coconut rice
Tip: The bar runs a strong cocktail programme worth arriving early for. Plates are sized to share.
Middle Eastern$$$east-burnside-kerns
The bright, plant-forward Middle Eastern room on East Burnside in Portland, open since 2016 with Pacific Northwest produce on every plate.
Signature: Lamb shoulder, Mezze platter
Order: The slow-roasted lamb shoulder with sumac and pomegranate
Tip: Open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The covered patio is the best seat in summer.
Peruvian$$$pearl-district
Peter Platt and Doris Rodriguez de Platt's Peruvian dining room in the Pearl District of Portland, open since 2003 with PNW produce and ceviche.
Signature: Ceviche mixto, Lomo saltado
Order: The classic ceviche mixto
Tip: Live Latin music in the bar every night. Happy hour from 16:00 to 17:00 is the best value in the Pearl.
Pan-Asian$$$downtown
The 15th-floor pan-Asian rooftop at The Nines in downtown Portland, with two outdoor decks and the city's largest sake list. Modern Asian cooking.
Signature: Kushiyaki, Kobe meatballs
Order: The kushiyaki tasting flight from the grill
Tip: Two outdoor decks with views of Mount Hood. Sunset is the seat to book.
European$$hawthorne-belmont
Portland's first salumeria, now a refined European bistro in the Central Eastside with house-cured charcuterie and a long pastry bar at the front.
Signature: Charcuterie board, Choucroute royale
Order: The chef's charcuterie board with house-baked rye
Tip: Choucroute royale is on the menu year-round but tastes right in winter. Brunch on weekends from 10:00.