Soul food$$harlem
Amy Ruth's on West 116th Street has served chicken and waffles in Harlem, New York City since 1998. Dishes named after Civil Rights figures and Harlem musicians.
Signature: Chicken and waffles, Smoked turkey wing
Order: The Reverend Al Sharpton: chicken and waffles.
Tip: Weekend brunch is the destination; weeknight dinner serves the same plate without the wait.
Turkish$$midtown
Ali Baba on East 34th has run Turkish charcoal-grilled lamb in Midtown, New York City since 2000. Iskender on yoghurt, octopus salad, sumac onions.
Signature: Iskender kebab, Lamb adana
Order: Iskender kebab over pita with yoghurt and tomato sauce.
Tip: Lunch buffet at $18 is the value play. Order extra grilled bread; one basket is never enough.
Thai$$flatiron
Thai Villa near Union Square serves Bangkok and Chiang Mai cooking in Flatiron, New York City. The crab fried rice is the house staple; the khao soi runs spicier.
Signature: Pad kee mao, Khao soi
Order: Crab fried rice and the khao soi northern curry.
Tip: Two seatings on weekends: 18:30 and 21:00. The 21:00 service is quieter and easier to walk into without a wait.
Caribbean$$east-village
Miss Lily's on Houston Street has run Jamaican island food in SoHo, New York City since 2010. Jerk chicken from the wood smoker, daiquiris from the back bar.
Signature: Jerk chicken, Curry goat
Order: Jerk chicken, rice and peas, fried plantains.
Tip: DJ nights run loud past 22:00. Brunch is the calmer service if you want to talk.
Japanese izakaya$$$lower-east-side
Yopparai on Clinton Street runs the Lower East Side's most serious sake bar in New York City. 70 by-the-cup sakes, izakaya snacks, 25 covers, reservations essential.
Signature: Sashimi platter, Sake flight
Order: Sake flight of three small cups and the daily sashimi.
Tip: Sake flights run with three-paragraph notes per pour. Bring patience and a friend who reads.
Greek$$lower-east-side
Kiki's on Division Street has poured retsina and grilled lamb chops in the Lower East Side, New York City since 2014. No reservations; the line goes around the block.
Signature: Lamb chops, Saganaki
Order: Lamb chops, saganaki, peasant salad.
Tip: Walk in at 17:30 or 22:00 for the only two short waits. The garden out back is the prize.