Joe's Shanghai on Bowery has popularised the soup dumpling in Manhattan's Chinatown in New York City since 1997. Cash-friendly, big rooms, family-style sharing.
Signature dishes: Soup dumplings, Drunken crab
Must order: Pork-and-crab xiao long bao, eight per basket.
Tip: No reservations; expect 30 minutes at peak weekend lunch. Bring cash to speed up the tab.
Address: 46 Bowery Street, New York, NY 10013, New York City
Tatiana Cafe on the Brighton Beach boardwalk has run Russian-Ukrainian family meals in New York City since 1990. Borscht, pelmeni, blini, ocean-front tables.
Signature: Pelmeni, Beef stroganoff
Order: Pelmeni in butter, with sour cream on the side.
Tip: Live music on weekend evenings runs late. Order from the Russian menu if Cyrillic is doable; the kitchen makes more there.
Sylvia Woods's Harlem soul-food restaurant has served fried chicken, collards and yams in New York City since 1962. Sunday gospel brunch is the institutional service.
Signature: Smothered chicken, Cornbread
Order: Smothered chicken, candied yams, cornbread.
Tip: Sunday brunch books up two weeks in advance. Weeknight dinner is the easy seat for the same menu.
Marcus Samuelsson's Lenox Avenue Harlem room runs an Afro-Swedish-Southern hybrid menu in New York City. Live jazz downstairs at Ginny's Supper Club after 22:00.
Signature: Yard bird fried chicken, Helga's meatballs
Order: Yard bird fried chicken with mac and greens.
Tip: Sunday brunch is the room's big draw; bookings essential. Bar walk-ins for a quick supper around 18:00.
Amy Ruth's on West 116th Street has served chicken and waffles in Harlem, New York City since 1998. Dishes named after Civil Rights figures and Harlem musicians.
Signature: Chicken and waffles, Smoked turkey wing
Order: The Reverend Al Sharpton: chicken and waffles.
Tip: Weekend brunch is the destination; weeknight dinner serves the same plate without the wait.
Ali Baba on East 34th has run Turkish charcoal-grilled lamb in Midtown, New York City since 2000. Iskender on yoghurt, octopus salad, sumac onions.
Signature: Iskender kebab, Lamb adana
Order: Iskender kebab over pita with yoghurt and tomato sauce.
Tip: Lunch buffet at $18 is the value play. Order extra grilled bread; one basket is never enough.
Thai Villa near Union Square serves Bangkok and Chiang Mai cooking in Flatiron, New York City. The crab fried rice is the house staple; the khao soi runs spicier.
Signature: Pad kee mao, Khao soi
Order: Crab fried rice and the khao soi northern curry.
Tip: Two seatings on weekends: 18:30 and 21:00. The 21:00 service is quieter and easier to walk into without a wait.
