Evan Funke's Roman follow-up to Felix runs out of a 1930s Citizen News building in Hollywood. Mother Wolf serves Roman pasta in a marble-and-gold room.
Signature dishes: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Suppli al telefono
Must order: Suppli al telefono, then the tonnarelli cacio e pepe.
Tip: The bar room serves the full menu without a reservation, but you need to be in line by 17:15 on a Friday.
Address: 1545 Wilcox Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90028
Michael Cimarusti's Providence on Melrose has been LA's two-Michelin-star seafood room since 2005. The tasting menu builds around West Coast producers.
Signature: Hokkaido uni, Santa Barbara spot prawn
Order: The full tasting menu; the spot prawn course in season is the one to remember.
Tip: Bar seats serve a shorter four-course at half the price; book those a week ahead instead of a month.
Ludo Lefebvre's 20-stool bistro on Highland Avenue runs walk-in only and pours strong Bordeaux. Petit Trois is the most-imitated counter in Los Angeles.
Signature: Big-Mec burger, Omelette
Order: The Big-Mec burger at lunch or the bouillabaisse at dinner.
Tip: 20 stools, no bookings at the original; the larger Sherman Oaks sibling takes reservations and pours the same wines.
Niki Nakayama's modern kaiseki house in Palms, Los Angeles, runs a 13-course tasting menu that changes by season and books months in advance.
Signature: Modern kaiseki tasting, Spaghetti pasta course
Order: The 13-course modern kaiseki, including chef Niki Nakayama's spaghetti course.
Tip: Bookings open at midnight Pacific on the first of the month for three months out. Refresh the page; tables go in 30 seconds.
Michael Cimarusti's Providence on Melrose has been LA's two-Michelin-star seafood room since 2005. The tasting menu builds around West Coast producers.
Signature: Hokkaido uni, Santa Barbara spot prawn
Order: The full tasting menu; the spot prawn course in season is the one to remember.
Tip: Bar seats serve a shorter four-course at half the price; book those a week ahead instead of a month.
Travis Lett's Gjelina in Venice has been the Westside's wood-fire vegetable room since 2008. The pizzas and roasted vegetables built the template.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Roasted vegetables
Order: Lamb sausage and pumpkin pizza from the wood oven, then the roasted Brussels sprouts.
Tip: Walk-in queue for the patio is fine before 19:00; after that, book or eat at the takeaway counter next door at Gjelina Take Away.
Ludo Lefebvre's 20-stool bistro on Highland Avenue runs walk-in only and pours strong Bordeaux. Petit Trois is the most-imitated counter in Los Angeles.
Signature: Big-Mec burger, Omelette
Order: The Big-Mec burger at lunch or the bouillabaisse at dinner.
Tip: 20 stools, no bookings at the original; the larger Sherman Oaks sibling takes reservations and pours the same wines.
David Chang's Majordomo in Chinatown, Los Angeles, runs Korean-leaning family-style sharing plates and a whole duck that requires a 48-hour pre-order.
Signature: Bing bread, Whole roast duck
Order: Bing bread with chickpea hozon to start, then the family-style whole duck.
Tip: Reserve duck 48 hours ahead by phone; otherwise sold out by 18:00. Bar seats walk-in serve the full menu.
Jonathan Yao's Kato in Row DTLA serves a Taiwanese-American tasting menu and earned a Michelin star in 2022. The 12 courses change every six weeks.
Signature: Beef noodle soup course, Stinky-tofu canape
Order: Whatever beef noodle course is on the tasting menu that month.
Tip: The bar at Kato pours a tight Loire-and-Riesling list; sit there even if dining in the main room.
