The Lopez family's Guelaguetza in Koreatown, Los Angeles has cooked Oaxacan moles, tlayudas and clayudas for the city since 1994. A James Beard winner.
Signature dishes: Mole negro, Tlayuda
Must order: Mole negro over chicken, and a tlayuda to share.
Tip: The Lopez family runs a moles-by-the-jar takeaway out the side door; carry one home on the plane.
Address: 3014 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90006
Musso and Frank Grill on Hollywood Boulevard has poured martinis since 1919, and still pours them stiffer than anywhere else in Los Angeles.
Signature: Martini, Chicken pot pie Thursday
Order: Martini at the bar and the Thursday chicken pot pie.
Tip: The original 1919 bar is the seat to ask for; reservations are for the dining room, not the bar.
Nobu Matsuhisa's original Beverly Hills, Los Angeles room from 1987 invented black cod miso and yellowtail jalapeno. Matsuhisa is the source.
Signature: Black cod miso, Yellowtail jalapeno
Order: Black cod miso and a round of yellowtail jalapeno.
Tip: Sit at the omakase counter for the strongest meal; the dining room serves the same a la carte but with no chef interaction.
Justin Pichetrungsi's Anajak Thai in Sherman Oaks, Los Angeles, runs his family's 1981 strip-mall Thai room as a James Beard 2023 Best Chef West winner.
Signature: Thai Taco Tuesday, Coconut curry
Order: On Tuesday, the Thai-taco menu. On other nights, the kao soi.
Tip: Justin Pichetrungsi's Thai Taco Tuesday menu sells out by 19:00; arrive at 17:00 sharp to get on the list.
Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis's Saffy's in East Hollywood, Los Angeles, is a wood-fire shawarma room from the Bestia team. Open since 2023.
Signature: Lamb shawarma, Hummus
Order: Lamb shawarma off the rotating spit, with hot pita and hummus.
Tip: The bar serves the full menu walk-in; reservations are for the dining patio out back and book three weeks ahead.
Avish Naran's Pijja Palace in Silver Lake, Los Angeles, fuses Italian-American pizza and pasta with Indian sauces in a sports-bar room. Walk-in only.
Signature: Tikka masala rigatoni, Chicken tikka pizza
Order: Tikka masala rigatoni and a chicken tikka pizza for the table.
Tip: Walk-in only, three TVs always on sports; the wait at 19:30 is 90 minutes, at 17:00 it is zero.
Sugarfish on 7th Street, downtown Los Angeles, applies the late Kazunori Nozawa Trust-Me set menu format to a casual sit-down room since 2012.
Signature: Trust Me set, Toro hand roll
Order: The Trust Me set: tuna sashimi, salmon and yellowtail nigiri, toro hand roll.
Tip: The Trust Me Lite is the better-value set for one; rice is warm, vinegar pronounced, fish room temperature.
