Tex-mex$$east-end
The Original Ninfa's on Navigation in Houston is Ninfa Laurenzo's 1973 Tex-Mex room, the birthplace of the restaurant fajita, still serving skirt steak tacos.
Signature: Fajitas (tacos al carbon), Ninfaritas
Order: The fajitas (tacos al carbon) for two. A Ninfarita on the rocks first.
Tip: Sit on the back patio under the strings of lights. The front room is loud and the bar takes 90 minutes to clear at 7pm.
Cajun & Creole$$$montrose
Brennan's of Houston is the 1967 Texas Creole dining room on Smith Street from the New Orleans Brennan family, with turtle soup, bananas Foster tableside.
Signature: Turtle soup, Bananas Foster tableside
Order: Turtle soup with sherry on the side. Bananas Foster, flambeed tableside, to close.
Tip: Sunday jazz brunch at 10am or noon books fast.
Steakhouse$$$river-oaks
State of Grace in Houston is Ford Fry's River Oaks dining room on Westheimer Road, a Southern-and-steakhouse menu in a glossy room with limewashed brick.
Signature: Wagyu steak, Oysters on the half-shell
Order: A dozen Gulf oysters and the wagyu strip. The wood-grilled fish of the day on a Friday.
Tip: The bar serves the full menu and is the quickest seat at peak. Sunday brunch is the local routine.
Italian, Wood-fired$$the-heights
Coltivare in Houston is Ryan Pera's Italian room on White Oak Drive since 2014, with wood-fired pizzas, on-site vegetable gardens and salads pulled minutes.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Garden salad from the on-site beds
Order: The Margherita pizza and whichever pasta is on the day's board. Salads come from the back garden.
Tip: Walk-in only. Get there before 6pm or be ready to wait at the bar for 90 minutes.
Cajun & Creole$$bellaire-asiatown
Crawfish and Noodles in Houston is Trong Nguyen's Viet-Cajun room on Bellaire Boulevard since 2008, the country's defining Viet-Cajun crawfish boil.
Signature: Viet-Cajun crawfish boil, Blue crab in garlic butter
Order: A pound of crawfish (in season Feb to June), the blue crab in house garlic butter, salt-pepper shrimp.
Tip: Crawfish are seasonal. October to January menu pivots to blue crab and Dungeness. Cash card surcharges apply.
Sichuan Chinese$$bellaire-asiatown
Mala Sichuan Bistro in Houston is the Bellaire Boulevard Sichuan room since 2011, with serious mapo tofu, dan dan noodles and a chilli-oil dumpling order.
Signature: Mapo tofu, Dan dan noodles
Order: Mapo tofu, dan dan noodles, the dry-fried green beans and the chilli-oil dumplings.
Tip: Order at least one dish from the cold appetiser cabinet near the door. The marinated beef is the menu's quiet star.