Contemporary AmericanChef George Dailey$$$$bolton-hillBook 2 weeks ahead
Cookhouse in Bolton Hill is chef George Dailey's restored 19th-century rowhouse, plating pan-seared John Dory with chanterelles and foie-gras croquettes.
Order: The pan-seared John Dory with chanterelles.
Tip: The restored rowhouse parlour is the prettiest dining room in the city; reserve the front room.
Steakhouse$$$$harbor-eastBook 1 to 2 weeks ahead
The Ruxton in Harbor East is Atlas Restaurant Group's steakhouse, serving prime aged beef and house-made tater tots crowned with caviar near the waterfront.
Order: A dry-aged steak and the tater tots crowned with caviar.
Tip: It is the newest of the Atlas waterfront rooms; the bar pours a deep Martini list.
Japanese$$$$harbor-eastBook 1 to 2 weeks ahead
Azumi in Harbor East is Atlas Restaurant Group's contemporary Japanese room inside the Four Seasons, flying in fish for sushi, crudo and a long sake list.
Order: An omakase run of nigiri, plus the crudo selection.
Tip: Sit at the sushi counter for the omakase; the dining room overlooks the waterfront.
VeganChef Alisha Adibe$$$fells-pointBook 1 week ahead
Oleum in Fells Point is chef Alisha Adibe's vegan fine-dining room, plating plant-based small plates, house-made cheeses and an internationally spiced menu.
Order: Start with the house-made plant cheeses and whatever small plates are running.
Tip: It is one of the few plant-based fine-dining rooms in the region; start with the tasting menu.
Italian$$$hampdenBook 1 to 2 weeks ahead
Cosima in Mill No. 1 is a Sicilian and southern Italian room above the Jones Falls, plating house-made pasta and seafood with views of the old textile mill.
Order: A plate of house-made pasta and whatever seafood is running.
Tip: The Mill No. 1 setting and water views are the draw; ask for a table by the windows.
Southern FrenchChef Spike Gjerde$$$$harbor-eastBook 2 weeks ahead
La Jetee at Harbor Point is James Beard winner Spike Gjerde's Provence-leaning room, plating Chesapeake seafood and seasonal produce in a Southern French key.
Order: Whatever Chesapeake fish the kitchen has worked into a Provencal preparation.
Tip: It replaced Cindy Lou's Fish House at Harbor Point; the all-day cafe is the quieter option.