The places in London the guidebooks miss.
The places in London the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.
Andrew Edmunds's candlelit Lexington Street bistro in Soho London, opened 1985 by the print-dealer Edmunds, still the city's preferred Soho dining-room.
Why locals love it: A candlelit Georgian townhouse bistro hidden between the Soho tourist circuit and Carnaby Street since 1985, established by Londoners and missed by visitors.
Tip: Bar seats at the front are released as walk-ins after 21:30. The handwritten daily menu does not appear online.
The Smoking Goat charcoal Thai BBQ kitchen on Shoreditch High Street in east London, opened 2014 in Soho then moved to a larger Shoreditch site in 2017.
Why locals love it: A charcoal-fuelled Thai canteen on the corner of Shoreditch High Street and Redchurch Street with wok-burners and smokers run by chefs who built the menu from northern Thai.
Tip: Walk-up at the bar; tables book a week ahead through their site. The fish-sauce wings and lardo-curry are the canonical orders.
Will Lander's wine shop and bar next to Quality Chop House on Farringdon Road in Clerkenwell London, opened 2019, the city's smartest neighborhood wine-shop.
Why locals love it: A wine shop and bar tucked beside Quality Chop House on a Clerkenwell side street where every bottle pours for £15 corkage at the bar.
Tip: Buy a bottle off the shelf, then drink it at the bar for £15 corkage. The lunch sandwich menu comes from Quality Chop House.
Owen Kenworthy's Columbia Road dining room in east London, opened 2010, runs Modern European small plates and a natural-wine list at a residential street.
Why locals love it: A Columbia Road natural-wine room you can only easily walk to from the Sunday flower market, missed by anyone not in east-London for the morning.
Tip: Best on a Sunday after the Columbia Road flower market closes at 14:00. The kitchen runs to 17:00; counter takes walk-ups.
Neil Borthwick's upstairs dining room above the historic French House pub on Dean Street in Soho London, opened 2017, the city's most-defended phone-free.
Why locals love it: An upstairs Soho dining room above a historic pub that bans mobile phones and serves the Modern British canon to a hushed dining room of regulars.
Tip: No mobile phones, no music. Tables book one week ahead. The downstairs pub still pours a proper half-pint of bitter for £2.50.
Margot Henderson's daily-changing British canteen inside a converted bike shed off Arnold Circus in Shoreditch London, open since 2004 for lunch.
Why locals love it: A daily-changing British canteen inside a converted bike shed off Arnold Circus that opens only for lunch and Thu-Sat dinner since 2004.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat for lunch and Thu-Sat dinner only. No music, no printed menu; the day's run is on the wall.
Gergovie Wines's importer-run wine bar and kitchen inside a Maltby Street railway arch in Bermondsey London, opened 2010, the home address of London chef.
Why locals love it: A natural-wine bar and kitchen inside a Bermondsey railway arch run by an importer, open Wed-Sat only and long-favored by London chefs who eat here on days off.
Tip: Wed-Sat only; closed Sun-Tue. Walk-up at the counter from 12:00. The kitchen rewrites the chalkboard every service.
Lori De Mori and Laura Jackson's Regent's Canal cafe on the towpath in east London, opened 2010, an outdoor-only seasonal cafe closed November to March.
Why locals love it: An outdoor-only cafe-and-restaurant on the Regent's Canal towpath between De Beauvoir and Haggerston Park that closes November through March every year.
Tip: Open March to October only. No bookings, outdoor seats only, cash and card. Daytime kitchen runs to 17:00.