Karam Sethi's Blandford Street Indian coastal restaurant in Marylebone London, opened 2008 and Michelin-starred, focused on Konkan and Mangalorean fish cookery.
Signature dishes: Brown crab Goan curry, Hariyali bream
Must order: Brown crab Goan curry, hariyali bream and a glass of riesling from the all-aromatic list.
Tip: The tasting menu is the best route in, but a la carte stays open at lunch and books a week ahead.
Address: 15-17 Blandford Street, London W1U 3DG
Ruth Rogers's Italian dining room on the Thames in Hammersmith London, opened 1987 by Rose Gray and Rogers, still the city's defining seasonal Italian restaurant. Michelin one-starred.
Signature: Tagliatelle with white truffle, Chocolate nemesis
Order: Whatever pasta dish is on the daily-changing menu, and the chocolate nemesis for two.
Tip: Sit on the riverside terrace in summer. The lunch sitting from 12:30 is markedly cheaper than dinner with the same kitchen.
Tim Siadatan and Jordan Frieda's hand-rolled pasta counter at Borough Market in London, opened 2016, runs a daily-changing list of fresh-pasta plates and a walk-in queue.
Signature: Pici cacio e pepe, Pappardelle with eight-hour beef shin ragu
Order: Pici cacio e pepe and the pappardelle with eight-hour beef shin ragu.
Tip: Join the virtual queue at 12:00 sharp via their app for the first lunch slots; otherwise expect a 60-minute wait on Saturday.
The Hart brothers' walk-up tapas counter on Adelaide Street in Covent Garden London, opened 2014 and Michelin-starred, runs a daily-changing list of Spanish small plates.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Pluma Iberica
Order: Tortilla de patatas and a daily specials seafood plate from the blackboard.
Tip: No bookings. Aim for 11:45 to be first in at the lunch open; sit at the counter to watch the plancha.
Nieves Barragan Mohacho's Mayfair Spanish dining room off Regent Street in London, opened 2017 and Michelin-starred, runs a tapas counter downstairs and a wood-fired upstairs.
Signature: Suckling pig, Pulpo a la gallega
Order: Pulpo a la gallega at the counter and the suckling pig upstairs at El Asador.
Tip: Counter seats downstairs take walk-ins. Upstairs has a six-week booking lead time but a fixed-price suckling pig set menu.
Jose Pizarro's standing-only tapas bar on Bermondsey Street in London, opened 2011, a Spanish counter that runs Cantabrian anchovies, jamon and croquetas from morning to late.
Signature: Iberico jamon, Croquetas
Order: A plate of Iberico ham, the croquetas and the daily fish specials at the counter.
Tip: No bookings; squeeze in standing at the bar from 18:00 onwards. Lunch from 12:00 is walk-in friendly all week.
Chris Leach and David Carter's whole-animal Italian dining room on Curtain Road in Shoreditch London, opened 2021, charcuteries pork in-house and rolls pasta to order.
Signature: Pig's head fritti, Cacio e pepe rigatoni
Order: Pig's head fritti, cacio e pepe rigatoni and a glass from the all-Italian wine list.
Tip: Bar seats and the counter overlooking the open kitchen take walk-ins. Tables book a month ahead through Resy.
