The counters in London worth queuing for: bread, pastry, and the morning ritual.
Bakery counters in London worth queuing for: levain breads, laminated pastry, regional bakes and the morning ritual.
Ben Mackinnon's railway-arch bakery beside London Fields station in Hackney London, opened 2010, mills its own organic flour and ships Hackney Wild sourdough across the city.
Tip: The Sunday morning canal-side queue runs 30 minutes; weekday opening at 07:30 walks in. Cinnamon buns sell out by 11:00.
Worth the queue: Hackney Wild sourdough
Olly Gold's laminated-pastry counter in Hackney London, opened 2016 on Richmond Road, runs the city's most-photographed viennoiserie and a Pophams Pizza sibling next door.
Tip: Bacon and maple Danish sells out by 10:00 on a Saturday. The Islington site at 36 Prebend Street has identical bake but quieter queues.
Worth the queue: Bacon and maple Danish
Justin Gellatly's bakery arch on Maltby Street in Bermondsey London, opened 2010, runs the original St John custard doughnut and a Saturday railway-arch counter that closes by 17:00.
Tip: Maltby Street market on Saturday is the canonical visit. Custard doughnuts sell out by 13:00; mid-morning runs the best selection.
Worth the queue: Custard doughnut
Matthew Jones's bakery counter inside Borough Market in London, opened 2013, runs hand-rolled doughnuts and a bakery school in the railway arches behind the market.
Tip: The vanilla cream doughnut is the marquee bake. Their bakery school runs day classes for £150; book through their website three weeks ahead.
Worth the queue: Vanilla cream doughnut
Max Tobias's social-enterprise bakery in a Dalston car park in east London, opened 2014, runs sourdough sandwiches, pastry and a youth training program.
Tip: Salt beef sandwich is the marquee fill. Sunday roast bread loaf sells out by 13:00. Outdoor seating only in summer.
Worth the queue: Salt beef sandwich
Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim and David Gingell's bakery-cafe on Newington Green in north London, opened 2019, runs sourdough, simple pasta lunches and a serious wine list at night.
Tip: The Brixton arch sibling on Atlantic Road is the south-London twin. Both close by 16:00 on weekends.
Worth the queue: Olive oil cake
Erin Wilkins's small-batch bakery on Camberwell Road in south London, opened 2021, runs serious natural-leaven sourdough, pastel de nata and a weekend-only pastry counter.
Tip: Closed Mon-Tue. Pastel de nata baked in batches every two hours; arrive at 09:30, 11:30 or 13:30 for hot ones.
Worth the queue: Pastel de nata
Dane Per Brun Madsen's Mentmore Terrace bakery in Hackney London, opened 2020 next to E5 Bakehouse, runs Scandinavian rye, sourdough and a small pastry counter.
Tip: Rye loaves come out at 09:00 and 13:00; phone-order ahead for guaranteed stock. Closed Mon-Tue.
Worth the queue: Rye loaf
The 1707 grocery and bakery on Piccadilly in Mayfair London, founded by William Fortnum and Hugh Mason, claims the original Scotch egg (1738) and runs the food hall and hamper rooms.
Tip: The basement food hall queue is shorter than the main bakery counter. The Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon books two weeks ahead.
Worth the queue: Original Scotch egg
Stephen Tozer and Manu Canales's modern kebab counter on the top floor of Kingly Court in Soho London, opened 2015, runs ethically sourced lamb shawarma, doner and falafel flatbreads.
Tip: The Kingly Court site has a sun terrace. The Coal Drops Yard sibling in King's Cross runs the same kitchen.
Worth the queue: Lamb shawarma flatbread
Peak food season in London is year-round.
Local dining hours: lunch around 12:30, dinner from 19:30.
service is typically included; small extra is welcome but not expected.
Ask the next local you meet what they would order. London rewards trust.