Modern Scottish££canonmills-inverleith
Edward Murray and Dale Mailley's stone-cottage kitchen in Royal Terrace Gardens in Edinburgh, opened 2012, a shared-table no-choice set-menu room with produce.
Signature: Daily-changing seven-course set menu, Sourdough with cultured butter
Order: There is no choice. The fixed seven-course set menu changes daily; bring an appetite.
Tip: Communal long-table seating; book three days ahead for the popular Friday-night sittings. Bring cash for the wine pairing.
Scottish gastropub££stockbridge
Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack's Stockbridge gastropub in Edinburgh, opened 2013, the casual-counterpart to The Kitchin running British classics in a Comely Bank.
Signature: Fish and chips with mushy peas, Cullen skink
Order: The fish and chips with mushy peas, plus a starter of Cullen skink to share.
Tip: The kids' menu is not patronising; the meatballs and mash is a proper plate. Sunday roast books out a week ahead.
Bombay-Irani cafe££old-town
The Edinburgh outpost of London's Bombay-Irani cafe chain on St Andrew Square, opened in 2016, a 200-cover all-day room in the old Bank of Scotland HQ building.
Signature: Bacon naan roll, House black daal
Order: The bacon naan roll for breakfast and the 24-hour house black daal at any other meal.
Tip: No dinner bookings under six; walk in from 17:30 and the wait is 30 to 60 minutes. Drinks at the basement bar while you wait.
Seafood££new-town
The New Town offshoot of the Leith Fishers seafood mini-chain in Edinburgh, on Thistle Street since 2001, a brasserie-style room running East Coast fish.
Signature: Cullen skink, Whole grilled lemon sole
Order: Cullen skink for starters and the whole grilled lemon sole with brown butter.
Tip: The original Fishers Bistro on the Shore in Leith is the smaller, more atmospheric sibling if you want the Old Port version.
Modern Scottish££old-town
Howies on Victoria Street in Edinburgh, the Old Town flagship of David Howie Scott's Scottish-bistro mini-chain opened in 1990, the city's everyday Scottish.
Signature: Haggis bonbons with whisky cream, Aberdeen Angus steak
Order: Haggis bonbons with whisky cream as a starter and the Aberdeen Angus steak with peppercorn sauce.
Tip: Pre-theatre two-course menu from 17:30 to 19:00 is the value play. The Waterloo Place branch is the second-best room.
Scottish brasserie£££new-town
The Dome on George Street in Edinburgh's New Town, opened in 1996 inside the former Commercial Bank building, a glass-domed grand brasserie room running.
Signature: Scottish smoked salmon platter, Roast beef Wellington
Order: Smoked salmon platter at lunch and the roast beef Wellington at dinner under the central dome.
Tip: The Georgian Tea Room at the back is a quieter alternative if the main hall feels too touristy at peak hours.