Seafood££new-town
The New Town offshoot of the Leith Fishers seafood mini-chain in Edinburgh, on Thistle Street since 2001, a brasserie-style room running East Coast fish.
Signature: Cullen skink, Whole grilled lemon sole
Order: Cullen skink for starters and the whole grilled lemon sole with brown butter.
Tip: The original Fishers Bistro on the Shore in Leith is the smaller, more atmospheric sibling if you want the Old Port version.
Modern Scottish££old-town
Howies on Victoria Street in Edinburgh, the Old Town flagship of David Howie Scott's Scottish-bistro mini-chain opened in 1990, the city's everyday Scottish.
Signature: Haggis bonbons with whisky cream, Aberdeen Angus steak
Order: Haggis bonbons with whisky cream as a starter and the Aberdeen Angus steak with peppercorn sauce.
Tip: Pre-theatre two-course menu from 17:30 to 19:00 is the value play. The Waterloo Place branch is the second-best room.
Scottish brasserie£££new-town
The Dome on George Street in Edinburgh's New Town, opened in 1996 inside the former Commercial Bank building, a glass-domed grand brasserie room running.
Signature: Scottish smoked salmon platter, Roast beef Wellington
Order: Smoked salmon platter at lunch and the roast beef Wellington at dinner under the central dome.
Tip: The Georgian Tea Room at the back is a quieter alternative if the main hall feels too touristy at peak hours.
Modern Scottish fine dining££££new-town
Mark Donald's basement dining room inside The Balmoral hotel on Princes Street in Edinburgh, Michelin-starred from 2003 to 2024 and still running fine-dining.
Signature: Loch Duart salmon with caviar, Aged Scotch beef with red wine jus
Order: The seasonal tasting menu; lunch sittings include a four-course at half dinner price.
Tip: The Bollinger Bar upstairs (also at the Balmoral) takes walk-ins for a glass of fizz before service. Smart-casual dress code enforced.
Modern Scottish£££canonmills-inverleith
Scott Smith and Laura Smith's Broughton Street kitchen in Edinburgh, opened 2018, a foraging-led set-menu room running 7 or 10 courses on Scottish wild produce.
Signature: Foraged greens and fermented butter, Roast deer with juniper
Order: The full Discover tasting; this is a no-choice kitchen designed for the long version.
Tip: Wine pairings include rare Scottish-distilled liquors; the non-alcoholic pairing is fermented juices made in the kitchen.
Modern European£££stockbridge
Paul Gunning's Stockbridge basement dining room on St Stephen Street in Edinburgh, opened 2014, a 20-cover neighbourhood kitchen running set tasting menus.
Signature: Hand-dived scallop with cauliflower, Aged duck with cherry
Order: The six-course evening tasting menu; lunch runs a slimmer four-course at GBP 40.
Tip: BYO Tuesday with a GBP 7 corkage is a cheap way to bring a bottle from the Wine Pantry next door.