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SeafoodTollcross West End
LeftField on Barclay Terrace in Edinburgh Bruntsfield, a neighbourhood seafood bistro serving seasonal small plates with minimal-intervention wines.
OrderWhatever shellfish came in from the West Coast that morning and a glass of Gros Manseng.
Why locals goBruntsfield is a 25-minute walk from the Old Town and most visitors never go. LeftField is Phil White and Rachel Chisholm's seafood bistro with a natural wine list and no PR.
TipNo website booking form; call ahead on 0131 563 1792 or walk in at 12:30 for a lunch table.
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SeafoodTollcross West End
Dulse seafood restaurant on Queensferry Street in Edinburgh West End, from the Dean Banks Group, a two-rosette seafood and oyster bar open Wednesday.
OrderHalf a dozen Scottish oysters with the house mignonette, and the monkfish with Highland butter sauce.
Why locals goThe Dean Banks Group is better known for Haar in St Andrews. Dulse slipped into Edinburgh's West End in 2023 without much fanfare despite holding two AA rosettes.
TipThe oyster bar counter at the front takes walk-ins without a booking. The full menu requires a reservation.
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InternationalLeith
Roseleaf Bar Cafe on Sandport Place in Leith Edinburgh, an eclectic all-day pub and cafe in a converted Victorian bar, serving brunch until 17:00 and dinner.
OrderPoached eggs with wild mushrooms on sourdough and a pot of loose-leaf tea.
Why locals goSandport Place sits one street from The Shore in Leith and gets missed by everyone who stops at the waterfront pubs. Roseleaf is a converted pub with tea in china teapots.
TipTea comes in full china pots here, not a bag in a mug. Ask for the printed tea menu.
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CafeOld Town
Union of Genius on Forrest Road in Edinburgh Old Town, Scotland's first dedicated soup cafe serving six freshly made soups daily with flavour-matched artisan.
OrderAsk the staff what they made today and take the one they recommend. They are right every time.
Why locals goA soup cafe sounds like a student canteen. It is. It is also Scotland's most consistent value lunch: six soups daily with artisan bread on Forrest Road.
TipCloses at 16:00 weekdays and 15:00 Saturday. No Sunday service. Arrive at 12:00 for first pick.
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Street foodGranton Leith
The Pitt street-food market on West Shore Road in Edinburgh, open Thursday to Sunday, an award-winning indoor market with rotating food trucks and craft bars.
OrderThe food truck list rotates weekly; check the website the day before and plan your order.
Why locals goWest Shore Road in Granton is a bus ride from the city centre that most visitors never take. The Pitt is Edinburgh's largest street food market: a purpose-built indoor venue.
TipFree entry. The sauna books up separately. Best visit is a Thursday or Friday evening before the weekend crowds.
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SeafoodNew Town
L'Alba D'Oro on Henderson Row in Edinburgh New Town, an evening-only takeaway chippy opened in 1975 and named UK's best by The Times in 2014.
OrderBattered haddock and chips. No gimmicks, no sides. That is the dish.
Why locals goHenderson Row is not a tourist strip. The chippy opens at 16:00, serves until 21:15 and has no indoor seating. Named UK's best chip shop by The Times in 2014.
TipEvening only from 16:00. Take your chips to the Stockbridge Water of Leith path five minutes away.