₺₺₺₺CafeSahinbey
Kahveci Seddar Bey serves a two-colour dibek coffee inside the Gümrük Han in Gaziantep, ground under a mallet in a stone mortar behind the counter.
TipClosed Mondays, open 09:00 to 19:00 the other six days. Enter through the han gate, not from the street.
₺₺₺₺CafeSahinbey
Kahveci Seddar Bey crushes its beans by mallet in a stone mortar inside the Gümrük Han, then sells the same dibek grind across the counter in Gaziantep.
TipAsk to watch the mortar work. The grind is sold in small bags at the same window.
₺₺₺₺CafeSahinbey
Kahveci Seddar Bey hides in the courtyard of a Gaziantep han rather than on a street front, which is why the two-colour dibek coffee stays a local secret.
TipClosed Mondays. Come before 19:00, when the han courtyard shuts for the day.
₺₺₺₺Street foodSehitkamil
Dürümcü Recep Usta wraps stewed chickpeas in flatbread in İncili Pınar, and the nohut dürüm is the cheapest full meal in all of central Gaziantep.
OrderNohut dürüm
TipAsk for extra pickled chilli in the wrap. It is the standard local correction to the chickpeas.
₺₺₺₺Street foodSehitkamil
Dürümcü Recep Usta fills you up on chickpeas and flatbread in Gaziantep for the price of a coffee elsewhere, which is why the queue never thins.
OrderNohut dürüm
TipOne wrap is a light lunch, two is a full meal. Add ayran rather than a second wrap.
₺₺₺₺TurkishSahinbey
Muhsinzade grills chicken şiş and lamb liver over charcoal in the Külekçi bazaar lanes of Gaziantep, opening at 06:00 for the traders around it.
OrderChicken şiş off the charcoal, wrapped with firik pilav.
TipShut by early evening. This is a breakfast and lunch counter, not a dinner room.
₺₺₺₺TurkishSahinbey
Muhsinzade is a charcoal counter in the Gaziantep bazaar where traders eat şiş and dürüm standing up, from six in the morning until early evening.
OrderA liver and mince dürüm wrapped in bazaar flatbread.
TipNo English menu. Point at the skewers you want and the owner will build the plate.
₺₺₺₺BakeryIbrahimli
Akşam Simit bakes simit and morning pastries in İbrahimli and sets out a full teapot with them, which is rarer in Gaziantep than it ought to be.
TipOrder the katmer alongside the simit. The pastries come out warm through the morning.
₺₺₺₺TurkishSahinbey
Muhsinzade rolls liver and mince straight off the charcoal into flatbread in the Gaziantep bazaar, and the counter opens at six in the morning.
OrderCiğer dürüm
TipEat it standing at the counter. There is no table service and the bench seats fill fast.
₺₺₺₺BakeryIbrahimli
Akşam Simit bakes sesame simit and morning pastries in İbrahimli, and unlike most Gaziantep simit counters it sits you down with a full teapot.
OrderSimit
TipOrder the katmer alongside the simit if you want the local breakfast in one sitting.
₺₺₺₺VeganSehitkamil
Çiğ Köfteci Yuşa Usta kneads bulgur, isot and spice into meat-free çiğ köfte in Değirmiçem, wrapped into Gaziantep wraps twice the usual size.
OrderÇiğ köfte dürüm
TipThe bulgur is kneaded without meat, so the wrap is plant-based before anything is added to it.
₺₺₺₺TurkishSahinbey
Muhsinzade grills for the traders of the Külekçi lanes in Gaziantep from six in the morning, and shuts long before the evening kebab crowd arrives.
TipThe owner will build the plate for you if you do not read Turkish.
₺₺₺₺TurkishSahinbey
Muhsinzade sells charcoal-grilled dürüm in the Gaziantep bazaar at trader prices, which is what keeps the benches full from six in the morning.
OrderCiğer ve kıyma dürüm
TipOrder the mixed liver and mince wrap for the best value on the board.
₺₺₺₺BakeryIbrahimli
Akşam Simit runs the cheapest sit-down breakfast in İbrahimli, a Gaziantep bakery counter where the teapot arrives full and then gets refilled.
OrderSimit and pastry
TipThe pastry counter restocks through the morning. Later batches are as good as the first.
₺₺₺₺VeganSehitkamil
Çiğ Köfteci Yuşa Usta sells meat-free çiğ köfte wraps in Değirmiçem at student prices, and the portions run to twice the usual Gaziantep size.
OrderÇiğ köfte dürüm
TipThe bulgur is kneaded without meat, so the wrap is plant-based before anything is added to it.
₺₺₺₺BakeryIbrahimli
Akşam Simit is the bakery breakfast of İbrahimli, a Gaziantep counter that sets out warm pastries and refills the teapot without being asked.
OrderSimit and katmer with a full teapot on the table.
TipThe pastry trays restock through the morning, so a late arrival is not a penalty.
₺₺₺₺TurkishSahinbey
Ciğerci Mustafa grills lamb liver on Bayramoğlu Sokak in Gaziantep, where the local breakfast is skewers, flatbread and a glass of tea at dawn.
OrderLiver skewers with tail fat, eaten with raw onion and zahter.
TipLiver is a morning dish here. Order the tail fat alternating on the skewer, that is the local way.
₺₺₺₺BakerySahinbey
Katmerci Murat is a family katmer shop on Atatürk Bulvarı in Gaziantep, cheaper than the famous names and generous with the pistachio filling.
TipThe şam tatlısı is worth adding if you are ordering for more than two.
₺₺₺₺TurkishSahinbey
Ciğerci Mustafa threads lamb liver and tail fat onto skewers on Bayramoğlu Sokak, the Gaziantep breakfast that surprises most visitors first.
OrderCiğer kebabı
TipOrder onion, parsley and sumac alongside. Locals eat liver with all three, never on its own.
₺₺₺₺BakerySahinbey
Katmerci Murat is a family katmer counter on Atatürk Bulvarı in Gaziantep, cheaper and more generous with pistachio than the addresses on every list.
TipAdd the şam tatlısı if you are ordering for more than two people.
₺₺₺₺TurkishSahinbey
Ciğerci Mustafa charges bazaar prices for lamb liver skewers in Gaziantep, and a skewer with bread and salad lands well under most kebab bills.
OrderCiğer kebabı
TipLiver runs out by early afternoon. Go at breakfast when it is freshest and cheapest.
₺₺₺₺BakerySahinbey
Katmerci Murat prices its katmer below the famous Gaziantep names on Atatürk Bulvarı while still loading the pastry with kaymak and pistachio.
OrderKatmer
TipSplit one katmer between two, the portion is bigger than it looks.
₺₺₺₺BakerySehitkamil
Özcanlar Pide & Lahmacun Fırını works a stone oven in Kayaönü, turning out boat-shaped pide and sfiha for the Gaziantep neighbourhood around it.
OrderKıymalı pide straight off the oven floor.
TipOrder pide by the metre for a group. It travels badly, so eat it in the shop.
₺₺₺₺BakerySehitkamil
Özcanlar Pide & Lahmacun Fırını is a working stone-oven bakery in Kayaönü, Gaziantep, turning out pide, lahmacun and sfiha throughout the day.
TipBuy pide whole and have it cut. Cut pide goes soft on the walk home.
₺₺₺₺BakerySehitkamil
Özcanlar Pide & Lahmacun Fırını fires pide and sfiha in a stone oven in Kayaönü, a working Gaziantep bakery rather than a stop built for visitors.
OrderKıymalı pide
TipSfiha is the smaller open-topped version. Order a mix and eat them in the order they arrive.
₺₺₺₺BakerySehitkamil
Özcanlar Pide & Lahmacun Fırını is a neighbourhood oven in Kayaönü where a metre of Gaziantep pide costs less than a single kebab plate downtown.
OrderKıymalı pide
TipOrder by the metre for a group. It is cheaper than buying individual portions.
₺₺₺₺BrunchSehitkamil
Tostçu Kadir Usta opens at half past five in Sanayi and grills toasted sandwiches for the Gaziantep workshop shift before most cafes have opened.
OrderTost
TipClosed Sundays and shut by half past one. This is a morning counter, not a lunch stop.
₺₺₺₺BrunchSehitkamil
Tostçu Kadir Usta opens at half past five in Sanayi, feeding the Gaziantep workshop shift toasted sandwiches long before any of the cafes wake up.
OrderA grilled tost with sweet pastry alongside.
TipClosed Sundays and shut by half past one. Reviewers rate the sweets over the tost.