Khao khluk kapi is shrimp-paste fried rice plated with sweet shredded pork, omelette ribbons, sliced green mango, dried shrimp, chilli and lime. You build each bite to your own balance.
Khao khluk kapi is central-Thai palace cooking from the late 19th century, when Bangkok's royal kitchens codified the dish as a structured assembly of contrasting components on a single plate. Shrimp paste (kapi) from Samut Sakhon and Trat provinces gave the rice its umami backbone. Krua Apsorn (a former royal chef's family-run restaurant on Dinso Road) is the canonical Bangkok address for the dish, and Saneh Jaan in Athenee Tower runs a refined modern version. Supanniga keeps the home-style preparation. The dish is meant to be tossed together at the table.
Supanniga Eating Room in Bangkok's Tha Tien serves grandmother-recipe Trat and Khon Kaen Thai dishes opposite Wat Pho, with a sister branch on Sukhumvit 55.
OrderThe moo cha muang (pork in cha muang leaf), the yum tomato pomelo salad and a side of khao soi.
TipClosed Mondays for the Tha Tien location. Ask for the second-floor balcony seat overlooking the temple at sunset.
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