La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian is the burnt-cheesecake house since 1990, with a small wine list anchored by sherry and Pedro Ximenez to drink with the wedge.
Food program: Tarta de queso and classic pintxos
Tip: Pedro Ximenez is the canonical pairing; a glass with the tarta de queso wedge.
Address: Calle 31 de Agosto 3, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian, San Sebastián
Galerna Jan Edan in San Sebastian's Gros pairs the chef-partners' tasting menu with a deep Basque growers' wine list, natural and small-producer leaning, with by-the-glass flights.
Signature pour: Itsasmendi 7 Txakoli with the tasting opener
Wine focus: Basque growers, natural and small-producer wines
Food: Modern Basque tasting menu
Tip: Book ahead; ask for the wine pairing with the lunch menu for best value.
Topa Sukalderia in San Sebastian's Gros, the IXO Grupo Basque-Latin American room, pairs Txakoli pours with the city's most interesting mezcal and pisco list across the cocktail bar.
Signature pour: Pisco sour with the cochinita pibil taco
Wine focus: Basque Txakoli, mezcal, pisco and Latin spirits
Food: Basque-Latin American tacos and ceviches
Tip: Order a pisco sour to drink with the morcilla quesadilla; the cocktail bar runs all afternoon.
Akerbeltz on Calle Mari in San Sebastian's Old Town serves Basque sidra natural from the barrel and a small natural-wine list, with a Bay-of-Biscay terrace overlooking the harbour.
Signature pour: Natural cider from the barrel
Wine focus: Basque cider and natural wines
Food: Pintxos and small plates
Tip: Terrace at the front overlooks the bay; the back room is calm. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the most complete Basque wine lists in the Old Town, with Txakoli on tap and a deep Rioja Alavesa shelf upstairs.
Signature pour: Itsasmendi Txakoli by the glass
Wine focus: Basque Txakoli, Rioja Alavesa and growers
Food: Pintxos counter and full dining room upstairs
Tip: Drink Txakoli at the counter; the dining room upstairs lets you settle in with a half-bottle of Rioja.
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro pairs the 28-egg tortilla and the double-anchovy gilda with a tight by-the-glass list of Txakoli and Spanish small growers.
Signature pour: Ameztoi Rubentis Txakoli rosado
Wine focus: Basque Txakoli and Spanish small growers
Food: Tortilla, gilda, classic pintxos
Tip: Drink Txakoli with the gilda; the tortilla wedge needs a heavier red.
Atari Gastroteka on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town, opposite the Santa Maria church, pours Txakoli from height into wide tumblers across one of the busiest standing-room terraces in the city.
Signature pour: Txakoli served from height into the church-step terrace
Wine focus: Txakoli, sherry and Spanish whites
Food: Modern pintxos and brochettes
Tip: Order Txakoli to drink on the church-step terrace. The terrace fills first; arrive by 19:30.
