Soldaditos de Pavía
Photo: Tamorlan · CC BY 3.0

Battered fingers of salt cod, deep-fried until crisp and finished with a strip of roasted red pepper across the top, the militiaman's red sash. The Madrid Easter and Lent classic.

Soldaditos de Pavía were named for the Pavia cavalry uniform of General Pavia, who staged the Spanish coup of 1874; the red pepper strip across the golden batter mimics the regiment's sash. Casa Labra on Calle Tetuan, founded in 1860, is the canonical Madrid reference; the bar still serves them at the same standing counter where the Spanish Socialist Party was founded in 1879. The dish appears across Madrid tabernas during Lent.

2 editor picks for Soldaditos de Pavía in Madrid, ranked by editorial score. All Madrid signature dishes · Soldaditos de Pavía across every city.

Casa Labra ★ 4.5

€Spanish tapasCentro

Casa Labra near Puerta del Sol in Madrid has fried the bacalao rebozado in iron pans since 1860; the PSOE was founded upstairs in 1879. Located in Centro.

OrderA pincho of bacalao rebozado (1.30 euros) and a tajada de bacalao (boiled and seasoned salt cod) with a cana.

TipWalk-in only at the bar; the inside dining room takes reservations for lunch. Cash strongly preferred.

Bodega de la Ardosa ★ 4.4

€Madrileno TabernaMalasana

Bodega de la Ardosa in Madrid's Malasana has poured the vermut de grifo since 1892 from the 30-foot zinc bar, with salmorejo, tortilla de patatas.

OrderVermut de grifo (2.50 euros), a slice of tortilla de patatas, salmorejo. Crawl in via the back door.

TipWalk-in only; the back room takes 8 people max. The historic main bar fills up at 13:00; cash preferred.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Soldaditos de Pavía makes more sense with someone from Madrid explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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