Battered fingers of salt cod, deep-fried until crisp and finished with a strip of roasted red pepper across the top, the militiaman's red sash. The Madrid Easter and Lent classic.
Soldaditos de Pavía were named for the Pavia cavalry uniform of General Pavia, who staged the Spanish coup of 1874; the red pepper strip across the golden batter mimics the regiment's sash. Casa Labra on Calle Tetuan, founded in 1860, is the canonical Madrid reference; the bar still serves them at the same standing counter where the Spanish Socialist Party was founded in 1879. The dish appears across Madrid tabernas during Lent.
Casa Labra near Puerta del Sol in Madrid has fried the bacalao rebozado in iron pans since 1860; the PSOE was founded upstairs in 1879. Located in Centro.
OrderA pincho of bacalao rebozado (1.30 euros) and a tajada de bacalao (boiled and seasoned salt cod) with a cana.
TipWalk-in only at the bar; the inside dining room takes reservations for lunch. Cash strongly preferred.
Enjoy incredible local tapas and a fun, informative, private or shared walking tour of Madrid’s historic city center. Discover how the city’s food and history go together.
Get immersed in Spanish food culture with a hands-on cooking class led by local chefs. Choose between a paella class with a market visit in the morning or a tapas clas...