Where to eat Callos a la madrilena in Madrid: 5 editor picks
Ranked by TableJourney editorial score.
Photo: Javier Lastras from España/Spain · CC BY 2.0
Callos a la madrilena is Madrid's offal headline: tripe slow-cooked with chorizo, morcilla, ham hock and a spiced tomato base, served bubbling in a clay pot with crusty bread.
Callos a la madrilena emerged in the 19th-century working-class tabernas of La Latina and Lavapies. The dish takes cheap cuts (beef tripe, ham hock, pig's foot) and turns them into a slow-cooked stew with the Spanish offal canon (chorizo, morcilla). The first written Madrileno recipe appeared in Angel Muro's 1894 El Practicon cookbook. The dish became a winter staple; Casa Lucio, Lhardy and Casa Ciriaco all serve canonical versions. The trick is the cleaning: tripe must be soaked, scrubbed and parboiled multiple times before the slow-cook stage. Modern Madrid kitchens like Sala de Despiece and Casa Mono still serve callos as a winter signature.
Casa Lucio on Cava Baja in Madrid's La Latina has cooked the huevos rotos (broken eggs over fried potatoes) since 1974. Kitchen leans madrileno taberna.
OrderThe huevos rotos on a bed of fried potatoes, then a half-portion of the solomillo or the cocido.
TipBook ten days ahead by phone; Casa Lucio rarely takes online reservations. Ask for the downstairs dining room when you book.
Casa Ciriaco on Calle Mayor in Madrid has served the gallina en pepitoria (hen in almond and saffron sauce) since 1929, three steps from where Alfonso XIII.
OrderThe gallina en pepitoria with rice and the callos a la madrilena. Half-bottle of house Valdepenas.
TipClosed Wednesdays. The Tuesday and Thursday cocido is the surest order; the dining room is full of regulars by 14:30.
Casa Toni near Sol in Madrid's Centro is the old-Madrid taberna for the offal canon: callos, oreja, mollejas and zarajos served from the formica counter.
OrderOreja a la plancha (6 euros), callos a la madrilena (8 euros) and a cana. A glass of vermut to start.
TipWalk-in only; the bar fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred; the formica counter has no card terminal until 2024.
Enjoy incredible local tapas and a fun, informative, private or shared walking tour of Madrid’s historic city center. Discover how the city’s food and history go together.
Get immersed in Spanish food culture with a hands-on cooking class led by local chefs. Choose between a paella class with a market visit in the morning or a tapas clas...