History

Soldaditos de Pavía were named for the Pavia cavalry uniform of General Pavia, who staged the Spanish coup of 1874; the red pepper strip across the golden batter mimics the regiment's sash. Casa Labra on Calle Tetuan, founded in 1860, is the canonical Madrid reference; the bar still serves them at the same standing counter where the Spanish Socialist Party was founded in 1879. The dish appears across Madrid tabernas during Lent.

Common allergens: Fish, Gluten, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 35 minTotal 26 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g salt cod (bacalao), thick centre cut
  • For the batter: 200g plain flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, half teaspoon fine salt, half teaspoon sweet paprika, 1 large egg, 250ml very cold lager beer, 1 ice cube
  • 2 roasted red peppers (piquillo if possible), cut into long strips
  • 1 litre extra-virgin olive oil, for deep-frying
  • Sea salt, to finish
  • 1 lemon, cut into wedges

Method

  1. Soak the salt cod in cold water 24 hours, changing the water 3 times, until barely salty.
  2. Drain. Cut into finger-shaped pieces 6cm long and 2cm thick. Pat very dry on a cloth.
  3. Whisk flour, baking powder, salt and paprika. Beat the egg into the cold beer in a second bowl.
  4. Pour the wet into the dry and whisk to a smooth thin batter. Drop the ice cube in to keep it cold.
  5. Heat the olive oil to 180C in a heavy deep pan.
  6. Dip each cod finger into the batter to coat fully. Lower carefully into the hot oil.
  7. Fry 3 to 4 fingers at a time, 3 to 4 minutes total, turning halfway, until pale gold and crisp.
  8. Lift onto a rack to drain. Finish with flaky salt.
  9. Lay each fried soldadito on a small plate. Drape a strip of roasted red pepper across the centre.
  10. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and a glass of vermouth or a small caña of beer.

Tip from the editors. The fish must be very dry before battering; any drop of water causes the batter to slide off in the oil. Pat each piece on a clean cloth and dust lightly with flour before dipping.

Where to eat soldaditos de pavía

Soldaditos de Pavía in Madrid

Casa Labra ★ 4.5

Spanish tapas€centroDaily 11:00-15:30 and 18:00-23:00

Casa Labra near Puerta del Sol in Madrid has fried the bacalao rebozado in iron pans since 1860; the PSOE was founded upstairs in 1879. Located in Centro.

Signature: Bacalao rebozado, Tajada de bacalao, Croquetas

Order: A pincho of bacalao rebozado (1.30 euros) and a tajada de bacalao (boiled and seasoned salt cod) with a cana.

Tip: Walk-in only at the bar; the inside dining room takes reservations for lunch. Cash strongly preferred.

Calle de Tetuan 12, 28013 Madrid

Bodega de la Ardosa ★ 4.4

Madrileno Taberna€malasanaMon-Fri 09:00-02:00; Sat-Sun 09:00-02:30

Bodega de la Ardosa in Madrid's Malasana has poured the vermut de grifo since 1892 from the 30-foot zinc bar, with salmorejo, tortilla de patatas.

Signature: Salmorejo, Tortilla de patatas, Vermut

Order: Vermut de grifo (2.50 euros), a slice of tortilla de patatas, salmorejo. Crawl in via the back door.

Tip: Walk-in only; the back room takes 8 people max. The historic main bar fills up at 13:00; cash preferred.

Calle de Colon 13, 28004 Madrid

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