Kokotxas are the throat lobes of cod or hake, gelatinous, ribbed and silken when slow-cooked in oil with garlic and chili. The Basque pil pil sauce binds the gelatin and oil into a thick emulsion.

Kokotxas began as a sailor's by-catch, with the throat lobes thrown back at port until 20th-century Basque cooks realised the gelatin made the silkiest pil pil sauces. Mina's Alvaro Garrido elevated kokotxas de merluza al pil pil to one of Bilbao's defining modern-Basque dishes, and the older kitchens (Casa Rufo, Anboto) run the cod-throat version with bread and garlic. The dish requires patience and a wide cazuela; the gelatin emulsifies with olive oil only with slow circular swirling.

3 editor picks for Kokotxas al pil pil in Bilbao, ranked by editorial score. All Bilbao signature dishes · Kokotxas al pil pil across every city.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Kokotxas al pil pil makes more sense with someone from Bilbao explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

Book food experiences in Bilbao

See all 145 bookable experiences in Bilbao