Kokotxas appears as a signature dish in 1 Spain cities. See each city's local variant and where to eat it.
Kokotxas al pil pil · Bilbao
Kokotxas are the throat lobes of cod or hake, gelatinous, ribbed and silken when slow-cooked in oil with garlic and chili. The Basque pil pil sauce binds the gelatin and oil into a thick emulsion.
Kokotxas began as a sailor's by-catch, with the throat lobes thrown back at port until 20th-century Basque cooks realised the gelatin made the silkiest pil pil sauces. Mina's Alvaro Garrido elevated kokotxas de merluza al pil pil to one of Bilbao's defining modern-Basque dishes, and the older kitchens (Casa Rufo, Anboto) run the cod-throat version with bread and garlic. The dish requires patience and a wide cazuela; the gelatin emulsifies with olive oil only with slow circular swirling.
Where to eat in Bilbao:
- Mina
- Casa Rufo
- La Despensa del Etxanobe