History

Kokotxas began as a sailor's by-catch, with the throat lobes thrown back at port until 20th-century Basque cooks realised the gelatin made the silkiest pil pil sauces. Mina's Alvaro Garrido elevated kokotxas de merluza al pil pil to one of Bilbao's defining modern-Basque dishes, and the older kitchens (Casa Rufo, Anboto) run the cod-throat version with bread and garlic. The dish requires patience and a wide cazuela; the gelatin emulsifies with olive oil only with slow circular swirling.

Common allergens: Fish

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 25 minTotal 25 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 600g hake or cod kokotxas (throat lobes)
  • 200ml extra virgin olive oil
  • 6 garlic cloves, sliced thin
  • 2 dried guindilla peppers, sliced
  • Salt

Method

  1. Rinse the kokotxas, pat dry, and salt lightly.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a wide cazuela over low heat. Slowly colour the garlic and chili; remove and reserve.
  3. Slip the kokotxas into the warm oil, gelatin-side down. Cook 4 minutes at a bare simmer.
  4. Turn the kokotxas, cook 2 more minutes.
  5. Remove the kokotxas to a plate. Off the heat, swirl the cazuela in circular motion for 5 minutes; the gelatin emulsifies with the oil to form a thick yellow sauce.
  6. Return the kokotxas to the pan, scatter garlic and chili over, serve with bread.

Tip from the editors. Frozen kokotxas work; they release more gelatin and make the easiest emulsion. Defrost them slowly in the fridge overnight.

Where to eat kokotxas al pil pil

Kokotxas al pil pil in Bilbao

Mina 1 ★ ★ 4.7

BasqueChef Alvaro Garrido€€€€€95-145Mon closed; Tue-Sat 14:00-14:45, 21:00-21:45; Sun closedBook 2-3 weeks ahead

Mina has held one Michelin star since 2013 for Alvaro Garrido's modern-Basque tasting menu, now a 25-cover Indautxu room on Calle Ercilla. Family-friendly.

Calle Ercilla 37, 48011 Bilbao Book →

Casa Rufo ★ 4.5

Basque Grill€€€abandoMon-Sat 13:30-16:00, 20:30-23:00; Sun closed

Casa Rufo on Hurtado de Amezaga in Bilbao since 1955 grills the canonical Bilbao txuleta over open flame, between deli counter and dining room.

Signature: Txuleta, Bacalao al pil pil, Pimientos del piquillo

Order: The txuleta from the grill; the bacalao al pil pil as the starter.

Tip: Lunch 13:30-16:00, dinner 20:30-23:00; closed Sundays. The deli counter is worth a look.

Calle Hurtado de Amezaga 5, 48008 Bilbao Book →

La Despensa del Etxanobe ★ 4.3

BasqueChef Fernando Canales and Mikel Poblacion€€€€€55-95Mon 13:00-15:15, Mon 19:00-22:15, Tue 13:00-15:15, Tue 19:00-22:15, Wed 13:00-15:15, Wed 19:00-22:15, Thu 13:00-15:15, Thu 19:00-22:15, Fri 13:00-15:15, Fri 19:00-22:15, Sat 13:00-15:15, Sat 19:00-22:15Book 1 week ahead

La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.

Calle Juan de Ajuriaguerra 8, 48009 Bilbao Book →

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