Bar Mut in Barcelona's Eixample is the marble-counter standard for natural-wine-and-market-produce dining. The Iberico steak tartare is the dish.
Signature dishes: Sea urchin with eggs, Steak tartare
Must order: The Iberico steak tartare and whichever off-menu fish board the kitchen runs.
Tip: Mid-week dinner is easier than weekend; bar seats walk-up only.
Address: Carrer de Pau Claris 192, 08037 Barcelona
Tickets in Barcelona's Poble-sec is Albert Adria's modernist tapas-bar tribute to elBulli. Reservations open three months ahead at 24-hour windows.
Signature: Liquid olives, Airbag bread
Order: Trust the kitchen and let them call the menu.
Tip: The window opens at midnight three months out; book the calendar reminder. Lunch is easier than dinner.
El Xampanyet in Barcelona's Born has poured house cava out of a marble bar since 1929. Anchovies, conserves and that is it; standing only at the counter.
Signature: Anchovies, Cava
Order: Two glasses of the house cava and a plate of anchovies with bread.
Tip: Open Tue-Sat lunch only. Pile into the bar at 13:00 or wait outside on Carrer de Montcada.
Quimet i Quimet in Barcelona's Poble-sec is the four-generations standing bar where bottles line the wall and the cook builds montaditos on demand.
Signature: Montadito of salmon with yoghurt and truffle honey, Conserva flights
Order: The salmon-yoghurt-truffle-honey montadito and a flight of tinned mussels.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat lunch and early dinner only; closed Sunday. Arrive before 19:30 for a hope of a corner.
Dos Palillos in Barcelona's Raval is Albert Raurich's Asian-tapas counter behind a black curtain inside Casa Camper. Dim sum, yakitori, sushi-bar service.
Signature: Dim sum tasting, Yakitori
Order: The full Asian tasting menu; sit at the counter to watch.
Tip: Closed Sun-Tue. Counter seats book up two weeks ahead; the back dining room is easier.
Koy Shunka in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter is Hideki Matsuhisa's one-star Japanese counter where the sashimi and nigiri arrive piece by piece from a U-shaped bar.
Signature: Tasting menu, Sashimi
Order: The Omakase tasting menu and the seaweed-and-yuzu starter.
Tip: Counter seats face the chef; book those over the back tables. Closed Sunday.
Bar del Pla in Barcelona's Born is the locals' counter on Montcada that draws the chef trade for the modernised tapas and natural-wine pours.
Signature: Beef carpaccio with truffle, Iberico pork cheeks
Order: The beef carpaccio with truffle and the slow-cooked Iberico cheeks.
Tip: Open daily lunch and dinner; book the bar over the back room. Walk-up after 22:30 is the easier slot.
